虎嗅

While in Crimea, watch locals dive into the water amidst the sound of cannons and drink red wine.

原文:身处克里米亚,看当地人伴着炮声跳水、喝红酒

Summary of Key Points

Against the backdrop of the Russia-Ukraine conflict, the author visited Crimea and found that the situation there was not what Western media had described as a "wave of refugees" or a "complete halt to all activities." Instead, the region coexists with the shadows of war and everyday life. The tourism industry (mainly catering to Russian tourists) is still functioning, and business and public services are largely normal, although there are issues such as gasoline shortages, communication restrictions, and localized shortages of goods. The author also observed the local population's adaptation to the war as well as the friendly interactions between the Chinese and Russian people.

Detailed Analysis

1. Tourism is Not Faltering; It Has Become a "Value for Money" Destination

Crimea is a popular tourist destination along the Black Sea. Although the number of foreign tourists has decreased significantly due to the war, Russian tourists continue to flock there. The author witnessed that hotels in Sevastopol (of four-star quality) were not only open for business but also offered free room upgrades, and the breakfast was so generous that it was the best of the year. There was a wide variety of restaurants, including Japanese and Korean cuisine, and the prices were even lower than in Sochi. Trains were full of tourists coming from Moscow and Kazan for vacation, with some people traveling specifically to enjoy the scenery on foot.

Why? With fewer tourists, hotels and restaurants have lowered their prices to attract local customers, making tourism more affordable. This indicates that Crimea's tourism infrastructure is still in place and that the local economy has not completely collapsed.

2. Gasoline Shortages Have Led to a Black Market

The author noticed long queues at gas stations on the outskirts of the city, with some stations running out of fuel, and regular gas stations having purchase restrictions. Some people were selling gasoline in barrels at higher prices with uncertain quality, but others were still buying it because regular stations were either too crowded or out of stock.

The Logic Behind This: The war has disrupted energy supplies, leading to gasoline shortages. This not only affects residents' travel (with increased taxi prices) but also has created a black market, reflecting the direct impact of the war on civilian consumption.

3. "Wartime Daily Life" with Its Unique Rules

Life in Crimea has many rules imposed by the war:

  • Communication: Foreigners do not have local phone numbers and have almost no signal. Public WiFi requires a Russian phone number for verification, and the internet is cut off during air raids (to prevent drones from using signals for navigation).
  • Lighting: Sevastopol has implemented a curfew on outdoor lighting at night, but residents still have electricity at home—this is not a power outage but a measure to avoid drones.

These Measures: They represent a balance between security and daily life. Although inconvenient, they ensure that basic life functions can continue.

4. The "Filter" of Western Media vs. Real Life

Western media has reported claims of a 15-kilometer exodus of refugees and complete power outages in Crimea, but the author saw that traffic on the Kerch Bridge was smooth (with only a 10-minute wait), tourists were basking in the sun in the city, and restaurants were full. The reason for this contrast is that media reports may be biased, selectively presenting a chaotic image. For ordinary people to understand the truth, they cannot rely on information from a single source.

5. Friendly Interactions Between the Chinese and Russians

On the streets, when locals learned the author was Chinese, they often said "Putin is good, China is good" and enthusiastically introduced local attractions. This friendship is not incidental; Sino-Russian relations have a solid foundation among the people, and locals have a positive view of China.

Future Potential: If the situation stabilizes, Chinese tourists could become a new growth point for Crimea's tourism industry. This positive sentiment also lays the groundwork for future tourism and trade cooperation.

Conclusion

Crimea's wartime life is a mix of the shadows of war and the continuation of everyday life. The war has caused energy shortages and communication restrictions, but tourism and business activities are still going on. The people have adapted to the constant threats of alerts and gunfire and continue to go about their daily lives, eating, and vacationing. This situation shows that war does not only mean destruction and flight; it also includes ordinary people striving to maintain their normal lives.