Summary of the Key Points
This summer, the wholesale price of crayfish seemed to have been cut in half (some even said it was cheaper than cabbage), but consumers didn’t get to enjoy the real bargain. The low prices at night markets were due to small green crayfish being weighed with water included, restaurants maintaining high prices, and the hassle of buying them oneself. Behind this are various factors such as the seasonal breeding cycle leading to temporary price drops, the catering industry’s reluctance to lower prices, and changes in consumption habits. The so-called “freedom to eat crayfish” remains like a mirage.
1. Are the Lowered Crayfish Prices a Hoax? Or a Seasonal Pattern?
The prices you see, like “99 yuan for 6 pounds” or “100 yuan for 8 pounds,” are mostly for the smallest size of green crayfish, which are weighed with water (for example, the bag containing the crayfish is filled with half a bag of water). After cooking, there’s very little meat left. This low-price trend isn’t unique to this year; it’s a yearly occurrence. Approximately 80% of the country’s crayfish are raised in rice fields (a rice-crayfish co-cultivation model). In mid-to-late May, when rice planting starts, farmers have to harvest the crayfish from the fields to sell them, increasing the supply and driving down prices. Once the planting is complete, the remaining crayfish in the ponds decrease, and as the weather gets hotter, they burrow into the mud to escape the heat, reducing the amount available and causing prices to rise again. Therefore, these “cabbage prices” are only seen for a few short weeks each year and disappear after that window period.
2. Why Don’t Restaurants Lower Their Crayfish Prices?
Even if wholesale prices drop, a plate of braised crayfish at a restaurant still costs 168 yuan. It’s not that the owners are unkind; it’s due to the pricing logic of the catering industry and cost fluctuations:
- High hidden costs: Rent, labor, and decoration costs are increasing year by year, and these expenses are passed on to the price of the crayfish.
- Price anchors: Over the years, restaurants have made it seem normal for a meal of crayfish to cost around 200 yuan per person. If prices were suddenly lowered, consumers might think the quality has decreased, so they prefer to maintain the high prices.
- Similar to oil prices: Just as domestic oil prices rise when crude oil prices do, they are also supported by a “floor price” when they fall. Restaurant crayfish prices have a similar “invisible floor” that prevents them from dropping easily.
3. Are Crayfish Really Unsellable?
The claim that young people have stopped eating crayfish is due to an oversupply and changes in consumption habits:
- In the past five years, crayfish farming has become more profitable than rice farming, with production increasing in 27 provinces across the country. With a population of 1.4 billion, this means each person would need to eat about 5 pounds of crayfish per year to consume the entire supply, leading to the perception that they are unsellable.
- Young people don’t dislike crayfish; they just don’t want to spend money on something that is more of a social activity. In the past, eating crayfish was about joining in the fun and taking photos to share online. Now, they value cost-effectiveness and consider crayfish to be an ordinary ingredient that’s not worth spending much on.
4. How to Achieve “Freedom to Eat Crayfish”?
There are only two ways to get cheap crayfish:
- Buy raw crayfish and cook them at home: The wholesale price of 10 yuan per pound is indeed low, but the hassle of cleaning, removing the intestines, cooking, and cleaning up is too much for most people.
- Buy pre-made crayfish: Crayfish caught in summer can be frozen and sold in winter, and the price is lower than at restaurants, but it’s still not at the point where they can be eaten freely.
Therefore, the true “freedom to eat crayfish” (without worrying about price or having to cook) is currently just a wish, due to the intermediate costs and changes in consumption habits.
5. The Rise of Crayfish: From an Invasive Species to the King of Night Snacks
As a side note, 30 years ago, crayfish were considered an invasive species in sewers, disliked by fishermen and caught by children for play. It was only when people from Qianjiang, Hubei, used “braising with oil and strong seasonings” to mask the fishy taste and highlight their crunchy texture that they became popular. Subsequently, other flavors like Xuyi Thirteen Spices and Changsha-style crayfish joined in, making crayfish the “king of night snacks” with annual sales of 40 billion yuan. This story of success also explains why people are so fond of them.
In summary, the perceived “false” low prices of crayfish are the result of a combination of breeding cycles, catering pricing, and changes in consumer behavior. To achieve “freedom to eat crayfish,” you either have to accept the hassle of cooking them yourself or wait for the industry to further compete and lower prices. Did you find crayfish cheaper this year? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments!
(Source: Shenke New Consumption)