虎嗅

What kind of market do we need?

原文:我们需要怎样的菜市场?

Summary of the Key Points

This article discusses the transformation of markets: in an era where takeaway and online grocery shopping are becoming increasingly popular, markets may seem inefficient, but their core value lies in fostering community connections and creating a vibrant, intimate atmosphere. Many attempts at market renovation by internet celebrities have failed to address the needs of local residents, turning the markets into mere tourist attractions. Successful renovations should focus on preserving the existing community relationships, while making moderate improvements and introducing new elements to balance the needs of both regular customers and younger visitors, ensuring that the market remains familiar yet vibrant.

I. The Soul of a Market: It's Not About the Food, but About the Human Connections

A market is never just a place to buy food; it's more like a snapshot of urban life. It's a hub of familiar social interactions—greeting regular vendors, haggling as if it were a casual chat, and the small gestures of giving an extra sprig of green onions are all part of the market's unique warmth and humanity. For people in big cities, visiting a market is a way to feel connected to their surroundings, to interact with real people, and to combat loneliness and anxiety. This kind of human connection is a fundamental reason for the existence of markets and an experience that online shopping cannot replace.

II. Why Do Internet-Focused Renovations Fail?

Many market renovations aim to attract young visitors, but they overlook the local residents who are the market's true audience. For example, the Shuangta Market in Suzhou was decorated with cultural symbols and added food-related crafts, but the prices increased, driving away the old residents and turning it into a tourist attraction. The Wuzhong Market's collaboration with PRADA created a lot of buzz, but it led to food waste, the displacement of local residents, and the disruption of the market's daily routine after the event ended. The problem with these renovations is that they focus on creating a "internet-famous" experience at the expense of the market's essential functions of serving the community and selling food, thus losing the community relationships that have been built over the years.

III. The Secret to Successful Renovations: Preserving Old Connections and Adding New Elements

Successful renovations involve minimal disruption or a focus on maintaining existing relationships. For instance, the Fengmen Hengjie Market in Suzhou underwent only subtle updates, such as replacing signs with uniform wooden ones and adding benches for rest, without disturbing the existing vendors and businesses (fresh produce, snacks, tailors, etc.). As a result, both old residents and young people were attracted to the market, creating a positive cycle. The Fuming Market in Ningbo adopted a similar approach, preserving the food-selling area, improving lighting and ventilation, and introducing local brands and amenities like convenience stores and tea shops. It also organized events like market sports competitions and cooking contests, which were well-received by both old and new customers, fostering a harmonious integration of different generations.

IV. Markets Are Really Important! Protecting Those Living Connections in the Future

Data shows that markets accounted for 57% of the national fresh food retail market in 2020 (more than e-commerce and supermarkets), with over 900 markets in Chengdu and over 800 in Shanghai, indicating their importance as a part of urban life. Future market renovations should not aim for radical changes but rather for gradual improvements that enhance the market's functionality and atmosphere. This could include making them cleaner and more ventilated, while preserving the unique sounds and interactions that make a market a vibrant part of urban life. Only by doing so can markets continue to be an essential part of city life.

In Conclusion

The value of a market lies not in being a popular tourist attraction but in being a community space filled with human warmth and connections. The key to successful renovation is finding a balance between change and preservation—keeping the old relationships and the vibrant atmosphere intact, while making small adjustments to create a more comfortable environment that meets the needs of both current and future users. Only in this way can markets retain their significance and embrace the future.