虎嗅

Has Hermès' CEO suddenly become concerned about the price of pork in China?

原文:爱马仕CEO,突然关心中国猪肉价格了?

Summary of Key Points

As a leader in the luxury goods industry, Hermes has recently faced a significant drop in its stock price and downgrades from investment institutions. Although its half-year financial results were impressive (6% revenue growth and a 41% profit margin), its stock price plummeted by 11%, representing a 27% decline for the year. Institutions such as the Royal Bank of Canada have reduced their stock rating from "outperforming the market" to "in line with the industry," and they have also lowered their target prices. The reasons behind this include: weak growth in the Chinese market, a narrowing gap in growth between Hermes and other luxury brands, and investors no longer believing that Hermes can remain detached from the Chinese consumer cycle. Additionally, Hermes' reliance on its leather goods business, coupled with changing purchasing preferences among Chinese consumers, has contributed to this situation. Chinese consumers are no longer as willing to pay premium prices for Hermes products as they once were.

Detailed Analysis

1. Why has the stock price plummeted despite good performance?

Many people may wonder: With a 6% revenue increase and a 41% profit margin (higher than most companies), why has Hermes' stock price dropped so sharply? The answer is that the market is concerned not with the company's current performance but with its potential for future growth. Hermes was once regarded as a "perfect company" that maintained high growth regardless of economic conditions, leading to significantly higher valuations compared to its peers. However, the situation has changed. The growth rate in the Chinese market has slowed from double digits to mere modest increases, while the Americas and Japan have become key growth drivers. Institutions have noticed that the growth gap between Hermes and other luxury brands is narrowing (for example, from an 8% lead in the past to possibly only a 2% lead in the future), making the previous high valuations unrealistic. In short, investors no longer see Hermes as deserving of its previously high price tag.

2. Why is Hermes' "pork price theory" being criticized?

Hermes' chairman, Bernard Arnault, compared the consumer sentiment in China to pork prices, suggesting that low pork prices indicate a lack of desire to celebrate or spend. But why is this theory seen as dismissive by many? First, the correlation between pork prices and luxury consumption is weak. Pork prices are mainly influenced by supply and demand (such as pork production and pandemics), which has little to do with luxury purchases. Additionally, Chinese dietary habits have evolved, and pork is no longer the only symbol of celebration. The market believes Arnault has failed to identify the real reasons for the weak consumer sentiment, such as economic expectations and changing consumer preferences.

3. What does the narrowing growth gap mean for Hermes?

A narrowing growth gap means that Hermes is no longer growing significantly faster than the industry average. This has significant implications:

  • Reduced valuations: Investors buy Hermes shares because they expect higher returns and faster growth. If the growth gap closes, Hermes' stock price should no longer be much higher than that of its peers. For instance, if Hermes' stock used to be twice as expensive as its peers, it might now only be 1.2 times as expensive.
  • Weaker resilience to economic downturns: Hermes was once seen as resilient to economic challenges due to its target customer base of high-net-worth individuals. However, with slower growth in the Chinese market, even wealthy consumers are becoming more cautious with their spending. Institutions are concerned that Hermes could be affected by economic fluctuations, just like other luxury brands.

4. The leather goods business: A double-edged sword for Hermes

Hermes' core business is leather goods, which generate most of its profits and are a symbol of the brand's prestige. However, this has become a risk:

  • High dependence: Institutions predict that the leather goods business will drive 63% of future growth (compared to 40% in the previous five years). This means Hermes' growth is largely tied to the performance of its bag sales. Chinese consumers are becoming more cautious about luxury purchases, preferring affordable local brands (such as Yamashita Yosu) that offer better value for money.
  • Slowing growth potential: If leather goods sales do not pick up, Hermes' growth could slow to 9%-10%, far below its previous 18% annual growth rate. Without this strong growth, it will be difficult for Hermes to maintain its past performance.

5. Changing consumer behavior in China

Foreign media have noted that Chinese middle-class consumers are not shifting to lower-end options but rather to more affordable luxury brands that fit their budget. This reflects a shift in consumer behavior. For example, what used to be affordable entry-level Hermes products (such as silk scarves) are now being replaced by higher-end local brands (like Yamashita Yosu) that offer good quality at a fraction of the price. These local brands, with their flexible supply chains and digital marketing strategies, have gained a share of the market that used to belong to Hermes. Chinese consumers are also placing more emphasis on practicality and design, and they are no longer solely reliant on Hermes as a symbol of status.

Conclusion

Hermes' current crisis is essentially a result of the market dispelling its myth of being a company that always grows rapidly and is immune to economic downturns. Changes in the Chinese market, the risk associated with its leather goods business, and the narrowing growth gap have led investors to reevaluate its value. For consumers, this indicates a shift in luxury purchasing behavior—luxury products are no longer necessarily more expensive just because they are luxury. Hermes will need to reevaluate its strategy and understand the needs of Chinese consumers if it wants to return to its former prominence. It may no longer be enough to rely on past trends or analogies like pork prices; it must focus on what Chinese consumers truly value.