虎嗅

240,000 businesses fail in a year: The rise and fall of internet-famous ramen shops

原文:一年倒闭24万家,网红拉面店,一倒一大片

Summary of Key Points

The core message of this news is that 240,000 internet-famous ramen shops have closed in the past year, shattering the dream of expanding to "thousands of cities and thousands of stores." The price of 30 yuan per bowl of ramen is becoming increasingly difficult to sell, and the key issue behind this is the low repeat purchase rate. The catering industry is not competing for temporary traffic and popularity, but rather whether customers are willing to return for repeated purchases.

Detailed Analysis

1. Why did internet-famous ramen shops become popular? —— They caught the trend with "appeal + marketing"

The rise of internet-famous ramen shops essentially tapped into the younger generation's desire to "check in" and socialize. For example, they used Japanese or industrial-style decor, served small portions of ramen in beautifully arranged bowls, which made for impressive photos on social media. They also invited internet celebrities to visit the shops and used platforms like TikTok and Kuaishou to generate traffic, quickly becoming viral on these platforms. Many people went there not because the ramen was delicious, but to "show off" their experience—after all, "I've eaten at an internet-famous ramen shop" was a piece of social conversation material. This "traffic-driven" model allowed them to expand rapidly, leading them to claim the goal of having thousands of stores.

2. Why did 240,000 shops close in one year? —— The "false hype" subsided, revealing underlying problems

Their rapid success was also followed by a quick decline for three main reasons:

  • Quality does not match the price: The ramen, priced at 30 yuan, was often no different from ordinary ramen costing 15 yuan. The ramen was pre-packaged, the soup was from concentrated packets, and the amount of meat was pitifully small, resulting in a poor value for money.
  • Severe homogenization: All internet-famous ramen shops looked almost identical, with similar decor, menus, and even bowl designs, leaving customers quickly bored after one visit.
  • Excessive expansion: Many brands franchisee without proper experience or reliable supply chains, leading to inconsistent quality and worsening reputations.

These issues combined, and once the traffic faded, the businesses collapsed.

3. Why don't consumers buy ramen for 30 yuan? —— Value for money is a major issue

30 yuan is not a small amount for most people. Consumers expect either "better quality" (such as freshly made ramen or fresh toppings) or a "better experience" (such as attentive service or a comfortable environment). Internet-famous ramen shops often focused on appearance without delivering on quality: the decor was attractive, but the ramen was of poor quality. For the same 30 yuan, consumers could get a bowl of rice with meat, a spicy hot pot, or even two cups of milk tea. With so many options, why would they repeatedly spend 30 yuan on less-than-satisfactory ramen?

4. Why is the repeat purchase rate crucial for survival? —— Catering relies on returning customers

There's a well-established rule in the catering industry: **the cost of acquiring new customers is five times that of retaining existing ones.* For example, spending 10 yuan on advertising to attract a new customer means you could get a free customer if that customer brings in friends. The fatal flaw of internet-famous ramen shops was the lack of repeat purchases; most customers were just trying something new and never returned. Without returning customers, sales would decline, leading to closure. Therefore, the ability to encourage repeat purchases is essential for the survival of a catering business.

5. What is the true essence of the catering industry? —— Returning to fundamentals is the key

The failure of internet-famous ramen shops highlights that catering is not about traffic, but about building a good reputation. Established shops, such as those in small streets, may have outdated decor, but their ramen is freshly made, the soup is carefully prepared, and the prices are reasonable, attracting repeat customers. In any catering business, the focus should always be on three key aspects: delicious food (product quality), reasonable prices, and unique offerings (differentiation). Marketing can boost short-term popularity, but only by focusing on these fundamentals can a business thrive in the long term.

Conclusion

The closure of internet-famous ramen shops is a natural outcome of the bursting of the "traffic bubble." The catering industry is not about making quick money; it requires dedication to product quality and customer service. Ramen priced at 30 yuan can still be sold, but it must offer something that consumers see as worth it—either good taste, unique features, or excellent service. Otherwise, even the most popular shops will face a fate of reaching their peak and then closing within half a year. The repeat purchase rate is the true test of a catering business's health.