Economy Class "Upgrade through Food": An Airborne Experiment About Face, Substance, and Profit
Hello everyone, I'm your financial journalist. Have you noticed a curious phenomenon recently when flying? In the past, our main concern in economy class was whether we could get enough to eat, but now some people are starting to care more about whether the food is of good quality.
Hainan Airlines' 106-yuan red wine mushroom sauce steak, Sichuan Airlines' 58-yuan hot pot, and China Southern Airlines' cured meat rice bowl—these dishes once reserved for business class or ground restaurants—are now quietly making their way to economy class tables. Meanwhile, airlines like Air China are encouraging passengers to "give up their meals in exchange for points."
Behind these seemingly contradictory practices lies a collective effort by the aviation industry to survive during a period of low profits. Today, let's break down in simple terms who is really paying for these "airborne meals," what airlines are trying to achieve, and whether this business model can be sustainable in the long run.
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I. Phenomenon Analysis: From "Filling the Stomach" to "Social Currency"
First, we need to understand why people are suddenly willing to spend money on meals on planes.
1. The Social Value of Contrast
Economy class meals were once assumed to be unpleasant and just adequate. However, when white porcelain plates, red wine sauces, and exquisite presentations appear on the cramped tables, it creates a strong visual contrast. For many middle-class passengers, spending a few dozen yuan on a flight upgrade to business class may not be worth it, but spending 96 yuan on a steak not only satisfies their hunger but also allows them to post a photo on social media, turning the experience into "social currency." Even if the taste is average, the sense of ritual and admiration makes it worth it.
2. The Shift to "Small Pleasures" in Consumption
Consumers are now more rational: they carefully budget for major expenses like buying a house or car, but they're willing to spend a bit on small pleasures. Flight tickets are a significant portion of their travel budget, while meals are a marginal expense. They're willing to pay for the immediate satisfaction of seeing a steak served, rather than for a seat upgrade that costs thousands of yuan. This is a typical example of "upgrading the experience while maintaining a lower budget."
**3. Solving "Choice Paradoxes" and "Taste Anxiety"
Parents with children or picky eaters dread the surprise of opening a meal box. Paid meal selection gives them certainty—they know what they're getting, and it's unlikely to be terrible. This is essentially paying for a sense of predictability and security.
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II. Airlines' Motives: A "Side Business" in a Profit Downturn
Are airlines suddenly so interested in food service because their chefs have improved? No, it's because they're running out of money.
1. Main Business Losses, Side Businesses as a Lifeline
The International Air Transport Association (IATA) predicts a decline in global airline net profits by 2026, and the three major domestic airlines have lost over 8 billion yuan in the first half of the year. High fuel costs are a heavy burden. Since ticket prices are limited by competition, airlines must look for revenue from "ancillary services." Meal sales have become a new source of income.
2. Maximizing the Value of Existing Customers
Once the plane takes off, most costs (fuel, crew, depreciation) are fixed. Selling an extra steak is almost pure profit. Compared to upgrading seats (which is costly and time-consuming) or improving entertainment systems (which is technically complex), adjusting the menu is the easiest solution. Adding a meal option through an app turns what was once a free benefit into a paid service.
3. Free Advertising
This is a clever strategy. When passengers share photos of their meals, airlines get free social media exposure. The popularity of Hainan Airlines' steak and Sichuan Airlines' hot pot on platforms like REDnote can be more effective than spending millions on advertising. It's not just about selling food; it's also about building the airline's brand image.
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III. Operational Challenges: The Hardship for Flight Attendants
Although the math adds up, this new business model is causing significant stress for frontline staff.
1. Extreme Time Pressure
Domestic flights usually last only 2-3 hours. Flight attendants have to conduct safety checks before takeoff and serve meals shortly after. With paid meal options, the process becomes more complicated:
- Verifying names and seat numbers to avoid mistakes;
- Heating different types of food (steaks, hot pot, rice bowls require different methods);
- If passengers change seats, more work is needed. It's like serving, taking orders, and even doing some kitchen work all at once, all within a short period.
2. Dilution of Service Quality
A private airline executive, Mr. Xu, pointed out: "Every additional meal option reduces the service time for other passengers." When attendants are busy serving three people with steak, the drinks, tissues, and other services for the other 200 passengers may be delayed, leading to dissatisfaction and potential complaints from those who didn't pay.
3. High Compliance Costs
There's no real kitchen on the plane, so meals must be prepared on the ground, transported through a cold chain, and then reheated on board. This leads to waste if not enough is prepared or if too much is prepared. The reheated taste often falls short of ground-level quality, and if the price is set too high (e.g., over 100 yuan), passengers may feel deceived, reducing repeat business.
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IV. Polarization: Paid Meals vs. Points
It's interesting that airlines offer both paid meals and the option to exchange meals for points. This seems contradictory but makes sense logically:
1. Resource Optimization
- For those who want to eat, we provide differentiated service and earn money from them.
- For those who don't, we save on preparation, transportation, heating, and waste, and give them points as compensation (which are much cheaper than the meal cost).
- This reduces waste and lowers operational costs while meeting different customer needs.
2. Localizing International Trends
In Europe and the US, free meals on short flights are already common. Domestic airlines are testing the idea of not providing free meals by offering points in exchange. If most passengers choose to forgo meals, airlines could eventually eliminate them and use the saved money to improve meals on long international flights or lower ticket prices. This is a gradual reform.
3. Psychological Balance
For passengers, exchanging meals for points is a loss-free option. They get points and feel they got something for their money. For airlines, it's a way to improve efficiency at a low cost.
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V. Future Prospects: How Far Can This Go?
Let's consider the future. Will paid economy class meals be a short-lived marketing gimmick or a new norm in civil aviation?
1. Short Term: Marketing Over Profit
Currently, the main purpose of paid meals is brand building and differentiation. Few airlines will make significant profits from this, as the implementation costs are high and the average transaction value is low. It's more about attracting attention to the airline's service quality.
2. Medium Term: Standardization and Automation
To make this a profitable business, airlines need to improve operational efficiency:
- Pre-packaging meals like in convenience stores, with labels for attendants to simply verify and serve.
- Self-service areas in the cabin to reduce staff intervention.
- Using technology to predict meal demand and minimize waste.
3. Long Term: A Tiered Service Model
The global aviation industry is moving towards a "basic fare + additional services" model:
- Basic fare with no meals, no seat selection, no luggage.
- Higher-tier options with paid seat selection, meals, and extra luggage space.
Paid economy class meals are part of this tiered approach. In the future, we may see more airlines reducing free meals to simple snacks and turning main meals into paid services.
In summary,
Economy class paid meals are an attempt by airlines to improve efficiency under financial pressure. They meet the social and quality needs of the middle class and generate new revenue. However, to succeed, airlines must address high labor costs and manage customer expectations regarding food quality.
For passengers, it offers a choice: you can opt for free meals, pay for a more luxurious meal, or exchange meals for points. The decision is up to you.
Today's Topic:
Would you spend nearly 100 yuan on a steak in economy class? Or do you think exchanging meals for points is more worthwhile? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments!