虎嗅

How afraid of death are the young people who book a month in advance, get their “pulse taken” before eating, and queue up to try the “herbal hot pot”?

原文:预约一个月、吃前先把脉,排队吃“草药火锅”的年轻人是有多怕死?

88 Yuan for a “Traditional Chinese Medicine Hotpot”: Are Young People Really Taking Care of Their Health, or Paying a “Tax on Intelligence”?

Hello everyone, I’m your financial observer. Recently, a new type of business called “Traditional Chinese Medicine Hotpot” has become extremely popular in places like Guangzhou. For just 88 yuan, you get not only a vegetarian hotpot but also professional TCM diagnosis (including pulse reading, observation, questioning, and palpation) and a customized medicinal soup base. This offer has tempted many working professionals, but it has also left many rational consumers confused: Is this really about taking care of their health, or is it just a new form of consumer trickery?

As someone who understands both economic logic and the well-being of the people, I’ve carefully analyzed this phenomenon and found that it’s more than just a culinary innovation; it’s a profound battle involving health anxiety, consumer psychology, and commercial profit-making. Let me break down the five key aspects behind this 88-yuan experience in simple terms.

1. What Do You Really Get for 88 Yuan? Medicine or Entertainment?

First, we need to clarify what’s actually included in that 88 yuan. According to reports, the meal includes:

  • TCM Diagnosis Services: A doctor performs a diagnosis, identifies issues like “spleen deficiency with damp-heat,” and prescribes a few herbs (such as Codonopsis, Chinese yam, and Poria).
  • Customized Soup Base: These herbs are boiled in water to create the soup.
  • Vegetarian Platter: This includes vegetables, whole grains, mushrooms, vegetarian meatballs, and ingredients like Purple Back Dayflower and Ginseng Leaves, which are considered both food and medicine.
  • Ambiance: The meal is served in a TCM clinic with a peaceful and ceremonial atmosphere.

The Key Question About the Medicinal Effect: Research in herbal pharmacology shows that the active ingredients in traditional Chinese medicine (such as alkaloids and polysaccharides) are mostly water-soluble. If you don’t drink the soup and just use it to cook the food, the amount of active ingredients absorbed by the food is virtually negligible. It’s like cooking soup in Guangdong-style style where the essence is in the soup, and the meat is just a side dish. If you skip the soup and eat the food alone, the health benefits of this “medicinal meal” might be no different from eating just steamed vegetables with plain water.

Conclusion: What you’re buying is not so much “medicine” as a combination of TCM diagnosis, vegetarian hotpot, and psychological comfort. The herbs are more of a prop to support the narrative of “a personalized treatment plan” rather than a real therapeutic method.

2. Who Are the Customers? And Why Are They Young Working Professionals?

This restaurant’s seats are usually booked a month in advance, and most customers are 20-40-year-old young people. Why are they so enthusiastic about it?

  • Concretized Health Anxiety: Statistics show that conditions like high blood pressure, high blood sugar, and high cholesterol are becoming more common among younger people. They’re experiencing sub-health issues like brain fog, neck problems, and herniated discs. They know their health isn’t perfect but don’t want to go to the hospital for long waits, so they look for a low-barrier, high-return solution.
  • An Upgraded Version of “Punk Health Living”: Young people used to stay up late and use expensive face masks; now they’re choosing to consume “tough-tasting” traditional Chinese medicine and eat “softest” hotpot. This is a form of compromise—they don’t want to give up their cravings but still want to feel like they’re taking care of their health.
  • Social Currency: Tags like “88 Yuan for Traditional Chinese Medicine Hotpot” and “Doctor Gives Me a Pulse Reading” are highly shareable on social media. It’s not just a meal; it’s a way to showcase a “refined lifestyle” and a sign of self-care.

Conclusion: Young people are paying for the sense of identity that comes with “I’m actively managing my health” and the social conversation material it provides.

3. How Do Businesses Precisely Target Health Anxiety?

From a commercial perspective, this restaurant (and similar businesses like TCM milk tea and pulse-reading bars) are very clever. They exploit information asymmetry and cognitive biases:

  • Low Cost, High Markup: The cost of herbs (like Codonopsis, Poria, and Coix) is low, and the amount used is very small. The cost of the vegetarian platter is also much lower than that of meat hotpot. The labor cost for TCM consultations is relatively low, and the diagnosis is mostly for branding and showmanship, not deep medical treatment.
  • Pricing Strategy: 88 yuan per person is higher than regular vegetarian hotpot but lower than high-end Japanese or Western food. This price is within the range where young people are willing to spend impulsively.
  • Scenario Marketing: Turning “seeing a doctor” into “eating a meal” makes the experience more enjoyable. Traditional TCM clinics are cold and intimidating, but this restaurant combines a TCM setting with a relaxed atmosphere, turning the process into a leisure activity.
  • Creating Scarcity and Ceremony: Elements like “personalized treatment plans,” “reservations a month in advance,” and “eating in a clinic” create a sense of exclusivity and luxury. Consumers feel they’re getting an “exclusive service,” even though the food might not be particularly tasty.

Conclusion: Businesses are selling the illusion of health relief rather than food. They package concepts like TCM, customization, and ceremony to significantly increase the price of what’s essentially just a vegetarian hotpot, earning money from emotional value.

4. The Scientific Truth: Health Promotion or Pseudoscience?

We need to look at the scientific validity of these “TCM+” foods objectively:

  • The Ineffectiveness of Traditional Chinese Medicine Hotpot: As mentioned earlier, if you don’t drink the soup, the active ingredients in the herbs are hardly absorbed by the food. Moreover, the high temperature and short cooking time of hotpot don’t allow for the extraction of the same benefits as slow-cooked herbal remedies.
  • **The Trick of “Medicinal Ingredients in Food”: While ingredients like Purple Back Dayflower and Ginseng Leaves do have medicinal properties, the amounts used in hotpot are minimal, and the nutrients are lost during cooking. Additionally, being “food and medicine” doesn’t mean they can cure diseases.
  • Hidden Unhealthy Elements: The vegetarian platter may contain high-fat ingredients like mustard cheese balls, and TCM milk tea (like red bean, Coix, and Poria milk tea) is very high in carbohydrates, which can be harmful for people with blood sugar or lipid issues.
  • **The Deception of Alcohol as a “Health Tool”: “Pulse-reading while drinking alcohol” is absurd. The WHO classifies alcohol as a carcinogen. No matter the herbal prescription, alcohol is harmful to the body. Using TCM concepts to mask the harm of alcohol is a typical marketing tactic.

Conclusion: From a nutritional and medical standpoint, these “TCM+” foods have little health-promoting effect and may even worsen health due to their high sugar, fat, and alcohol content. They’re more of a psychological placebo.

5. A Deeper Reflection: Why Are People Paying for This?

Let’s consider the underlying social and psychological factors:

  • The Conflict Between Health and Pleasure: Modern young people face a dilemma: they understand the importance of health but can’t resist the pressures of work and cravings. They want a way to healthily indulge without sacrificing enjoyment.
  • The Victory of Consumerism: Businesses have tapped into this conflict, turning health concerns into purchases. They promise a quick fix: “You don’t need to change your lifestyle; just spend 88 yuan, and you’ll feel better.” This offers a cheap form of self-redemption.
  • Shift in Trust: Young people are tired of the traditional medical system’s bureaucracy and seriousness, so they turn to more personalized and experiential services. TCM’s diagnostic methods are rebranded with a commercial meaning, serving as a bridge between tradition and modernity, health and pleasure.

Summary and Recommendations:

  • For Consumers: If you see it as a novel cultural experience or a social activity, then 88 yuan is a reasonable expense for a pleasant meal. But if you expect it to cure diseases or improve your health, you’ll likely be disappointed. True health comes from a balanced diet, regular exercise, and a healthy lifestyle, not from a single meal or drink.
  • For the Industry: This type of business will likely go through phases of popularity, skepticism, and differentiation. Only brands that focus on ingredient quality, scientific proportions, and transparent nutrition information will survive. Those that rely on hype and ignore health will be eliminated by the market.

In Summary: The 88 yuan you pay is for the **illusion of “I’m making an effort to get better.” In an era of anxiety, what we really need is clearer self-awareness and more sustainable health habits, not just more “TCM+” foods.