虎嗅

American Apparel Fades in Color: Why Can't the "King of Pedestrian Streets" Retain Young People?

原文:美邦服饰褪色:“步行街之王”为何留不住年轻人?

From the "King of Pedestrian Streets" to a "Marginal Player": The Decline and Struggles of Meitubangwei

Hello everyone, I'm your financial journalist. Today, we're going to talk about a name that might bring a sense of nostalgia to many people born in the 80s and 90s—Meitubangwei.

Recently, the topic "Young people don't like shopping at Meitubangwei" has made headlines, bringing this once dominant national brand, which once occupied the city's core shopping areas and featured celebrities like Jay Chou and Stefanie Sun as endorsers, back into the spotlight. However, this time, the spotlight comes with a hint of sadness.

In short, Meitubangwei is facing a survival crisis. It was once the leader in China's casual clothing market, with revenues approaching 10 billion yuan and was the first company to list on the A-share stock market. But now, its number of stores has decreased from over 5,000 at its peak to less than 600, and the company has been in continuous loss with heavy debts. The founder, Zhou Chengjian, has returned to try to turn the situation around by focusing on the "outdoor fashion" trend and launching live streaming campaigns, but the results have not been satisfactory.

To help you understand the reasons behind this, I've broken down the news into five key points and explained them in plain language: How did Meitubangwei fall behind? Are its current efforts to save itself effective? Is there any hope for the future?

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1. The Times Have Changed: Your "Old Friend" Has Grown Up, and So Has Their Taste

Core Issue: Meitubangwei failed to keep up with consumer trends.

Think back ten years ago; when you bought clothes, Meitubangwei, Semar, and Yichun were probably your top choices. Why? Because back then, people were looking for good value for money and wanted to wear the same styles as their favorite celebrities. But now, the main consumer group is the Z Generation (mainly born in the 2000s), and their shopping habits have changed dramatically:

  • Avoiding Fashion Clashes: In the past, wearing the same clothes as others was cool, but now young people find it embarrassing. They pursue personalization and unique designs, even favoring subcultures like anime and Chinese fashion trends. Meitubangwei's "basic, mainstream styles" seem plain and unremarkable to them.
  • Contextual Shopping: Young people are very particular about the occasion for their clothing. For work, they wear Uniqlo (for comfort and versatility); for sports, they choose Anta or Li Ning (for professionalism); for a more individualistic look, they opt for brands like Jiangnan Buyi or designer brands.
  • Meitubangwei's Dilemma: The brand has always positioned itself as "trendy and casual," but this definition is too vague. It's neither professional enough to compete with sports brands nor distinctive enough to stand out from designer brands, and it's not as affordable as Uniqlo. As a result, it fails to meet the core needs of any major consumer group.

In one sentence: It's not that the clothes have become worse; it's that the young consumers have become more demanding, and Meitubangwei hasn't understood their new preferences.

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2. Betting on Outdoor Fashion: Trying to Copy the Success of Arc'teryx, but with Limited Success

Core Issue: The strategic shift to outdoor fashion is correct, but the execution and brand strength are lacking.

Seeing the popularity of outdoor clothing (such as jackets and hiking gear), founder Zhou Chengjian decided to transform the brand into a "trendy outdoor" brand.

  • Why Outdoor Fashion? This segment has been growing rapidly, with outdoor spending increasing by nearly 40% in 2024, and the 24-34 age group being the main consumer group. Meitubangwei launched the "Catch the Bird" campaign with the goal of becoming a "budget alternative" to Arc'teryx.
  • Pricing Strategy: Meitubangwei's outdoor products are priced around 99 to 999 yuan, hoping to attract young people who can't afford Arc'teryx. However, the reality is harsh:
  • Brand Discrepancy: Arc'teryx is seen as a symbol of professional quality and luxury, while Meitubangwei's products are perceived as cheaper. Consumers are aware of the differences in waterproofing, breathability, and durability. Buying Arc'teryx is often about status, which Meitubangwei can't match.
  • Poor Performance: Despite the new products, Meitubangwei's revenue plummeted by 49.79% in 2024, with a loss of 195 million yuan. The trend continued in 2025 and the first half of 2026. This shows that just changing the brand name doesn't solve fundamental issues.

In one sentence: Even with a popular trend, Meitubangwei's lack of core competitiveness means it can't capitalize on it effectively.

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3. Inventory Piling Up: Clothes Sitting in Warehouses, Going Bad

Core Issue: The supply chain is slow to respond, and product updates don't keep up with market trends.

A concerning statistic: Meitubangwei's inventory turnover time is 487.5 days, compared to:

  • Hailan Home: 263 days (about 8 months)
  • Semar: 154 days (about 5 months)
  • Meitubangwei: Over 16 months

This means that Meitubangwei's products can take up to a year and a half to sell.

  • Reasons for the Slow Turnover:

1. Poor Forecasting: Weak market research leads to producing unsold items.

2. Slow Response: Fashion trends change rapidly, and Meitubangwei's cycle from design to market release is too long. By the time products hit stores, they may be outdated.

3. Inefficient Channels: With fewer stores, inventory doesn't get cleared, tying up capital.

Consequences: The backlog of inventory not only consumes cash but also results in significant losses due to depreciation. This is a major reason for Meitubangwei's continuous losses.

In one sentence: In the fast-paced fashion world, being slow is deadly. Meitubangwei's supply chain is like an old truck, while the market needs a high-speed train.

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4. The Founder's Return: Zhou Chengjian's Efforts to Save the Brand

Core Issue: Can Zhou Chengjian's return turn the situation around? So far, his efforts are more about stopping the bleeding than generating new revenue.

In 2016, Zhou Chengjian stepped back from the company, and his daughter, Hu Jiajia, took over. Over the past seven years, the company accumulated losses of over 3 billion yuan and debts of over 10 billion yuan. In 2024, he returned as chairman and president:

  • Actions Taken:

1. Asset Sales: He sold assets to raise cash, generating nearly 2.2 billion yuan between 2021 and 2024 to stay afloat.

2. Financial Support: In 2026, the controlling shareholder provided another 600 million yuan in funding, with 178 million yuan still outstanding. This shows the company's weak ability to generate its own revenue.

3. Channel Reform: He proposed the "Channel 5.0" strategy, aiming to open lifestyle experience centers and community outlets, but these initiatives are costly and difficult to implement.

4. Personal Live Selling: The 60-year-old Zhou Chengjian participates in live streams, achieving a high transaction volume in some sessions.

Results:

  • Online Sales Decline: Online sales in the first half of 2026 were only 37 million yuan, a 42% decrease. Live streaming has brought temporary traffic but hasn't led to sustained sales or brand loyalty.
  • Further Store Closures: The number of stores decreased from 5,220 to 575. While closing stores reduces losses, it also reduces brand visibility.

In one sentence: Zhou Chengjian's efforts are mainly about short-term fixes (selling assets, borrowing money) and trying to maintain the brand's presence through live streaming. Without addressing underlying issues (inventory, supply chain, brand strength), it's hard to make a significant turnaround.

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5. A Future Outlook: Rebirth or Gradual Obsolescence?

Core Issue: Does Meitubangwei have a chance to recover?

The current situation indicates a systemic crisis:

1. Brand Aging: In the eyes of young people, Meitubangwei is no longer associated with trends but with obsolescence. Rebuilding the brand image requires time and substantial investment.

2. Fierce Competition: Brands like Uniqlo, ZARA, SHEIN, Anta, Li Ning, and many Chinese fashion trends are competing for market share.

3. Financial Pressure: High debts and inventory mean the company lacks the resources for long-term brand reconstruction.

Possible Outcomes:

  • Optimistic Scenario: If Meitubangwei can differentiate its outdoor products (e.g., with innovative materials or iconic designs) and significantly reduce inventory, it might become a strong second-tier brand in a niche market.
  • Pessimistic Scenario: It's more likely that the brand will continue to shrink, remaining active only in a few cities, relying on online sales to clear inventory, and eventually fading from the mainstream.

Lessons for Everyone:

  • For Consumers: Buy clothes based on value and comfort; there's no need to pay a premium for nostalgia. If the price and style suit you, Meitubangwei's products are still an option, but don't expect them to offer a trendy experience.
  • For Investors/Observers: Meitubangwei's story is a cautionary tale about the failure of traditional brands to adapt to changing consumer trends. In the retail industry, there are no eternal kings; only survivors who adapt continuously.

**In closing, as Zhou Chengjian himself said, "As for the outcome, we can do our best, but the rest is up to fate." This statement captures the reality of Meitubangwei's current situation.