虎嗅

Xianju bayberries: standing between turmoil and opportunity

原文:仙居杨梅,在风浪与风口之间

Summary of the Core Content

The scandal involving the use of saccharin in Yangmei (a type of plum) from Zhangzhou, Fujian, has plunged the entire Yangmei industry into a crisis of trust. However, the Xianju Yangmei, which is about to ripen, is working hard to maintain its reputation through a strict set of trust mechanisms (government regulation, traceability codes, and commitments from farmers), a sophisticated supply chain (picking in the early hours, cold-chain transportation, and graded packaging), as well as its unique status as a premium gift (due to scarcity and prestige). Additionally, Xianju Yangmei is upgrading its marketing strategies through live broadcasts and private sales channels, shifting from traditional wholesale to direct sales to consumers, thereby avoiding being exploited by intermediaries and ensuring that these delicate fruits reach customers across the country safely.

Detailed Analysis

How Does Xianju Yangmei Win Back Consumer Trust After the Zhangzhou Scandal?

After the saccharin incident in Zhangzhou, consumers became skeptical of all Yangmei products. Xianju Yangmei has managed to stand firm by combining both tangible and intangible measures:

  • Government-Mandated Regulations: Xianju Yangmei is a geographically protected trademark owned by the government, and any violator faces severe consequences—for example, if pesticides are sprayed before picking, not only will all the fruits be discarded, but the brand “Xianju Yangmei” will also be banned for three years. These strict rules have been in place for over a decade, and now no one dares to break them.
  • Traceability for Every Box: All Yangmei from Zhejiang province comes with a traceability code, which allows consumers to see where the fruits were grown, when they were picked, and the test results. Fruits without a code cannot be sold, providing customers with peace of mind.
  • Farmers’ Expertise: Experienced farmers can quickly identify diseased fruits and offer simple tips for identification: normal Yangmei doesn’t taste sweet on the surface (the sweetness comes from the flesh), and it softens at room temperature after three hours; if it tastes sweet on the surface or remains unchanged over time, there is likely a problem. Although these methods are not scientific, they are highly practical.

The Journey of Yangmei from the Mountains to Your Home

Yangmei is very delicate, and every step in its journey from the tree to your hands requires urgency:

  • Pruning for Quality: Farmers remove all but the best 1–2 fruits per branch, using the remaining fruit as fertilizer for the other plants, ensuring that the nutrients are concentrated and allowing the Yangmei to grow to a large size.
  • Early Picking: Fruits must be picked before sunrise (before 6 AM) to prevent them from wilting in the sun. At 3 AM, the mountains are brightly lit by headlamps as farmers climb the slopes to pick the fruits, prioritizing protecting the baskets over themselves if they fall.
  • Cold Chain Transportation: Picked fruits are immediately transported down the mountain using a “mountain train” and then placed in cold storage to remove heat. They are packaged in foam boxes with insulated bags and saltwater ice. The cost of shipping to Jiangsu, Zhejiang, and Shanghai via cold chain is 25 yuan per box, while shipping to the northeast costs 80–120 yuan—sometimes the shipping fee is even higher than the price of the fruit itself.

Why Is Sending Yangmei a Symbol of Prestige?

Yangmei is considered a premium gift due to its scarcity and ceremonial significance:

  • Short Shelf Life: Yangmei only ripens for about a month and loses flavor at room temperature within three days, making it all the more valuable. There’s a saying in Jiangsu and Zhejiang: “To see if you’re important, check if someone sends you Yangmei.” Receiving fresh Yangmei indicates that you are considered significant to the sender.
  • Price Differences: Yangmei is priced based on weight; smaller fruits (under 20 grams) cost around seven to eight yuan per pound, while larger fruits (over 30 grams) can sell for up to 40 yuan per pound, with the finest ones selling for fifty to sixty yuan per piece. A three-pound box of premium Yangmei can cost up to 400 yuan in the northeast, making it more expensive than many other fruits.
  • Unique Flavor: Yunnan Yangmei is early but sour, Fujian Yangmei is also early but may have quality issues; Xianju Dongkui Yangmei has a balance of sweetness and a slight acidity, with a rich flavor that truly represents the “authentic” taste of Yangmei, making it an impressive gift.

The Year in Xianju: Yangmei Takes Center Stage

Yangmei is the main source of income for the local economy: Last year, the entire supply chain generated 4.8 billion yuan in revenue, with 150,000 acres of Yangmei trees supporting the entire county’s population. The local lifestyle revolves around Yangmei:

  • Year-Round Focus: Flowers bloom in March, fruiting occurs in April, pruning in May, and picking in June. During the season, small businesses (there are 10,000 Xianju-related eateries in the Yangtze River Delta region) close down, factories take holidays, and young people working away from home return to help with the harvest.
  • Avoiding Intermediaries: In the past, Xianju Yangmei was often rejected by supermarkets due to fraud (e.g., fruits being deliberately exposed to the sun and then claimed to be damaged), resulting in losses for farmers like Wen Tao, who once lost 200,000 yuan. Now, through live broadcasts and direct sales, farmers can sell to consumers directly, keeping prices stable during the first harvest and offering discounts on rainy days. They also invite customers to their farms, gradually building trust.

How Has Xianju Yangmei Adapted to Modern Times?

Xianju’s transformation reflects how traditional agriculture can embrace new methods:

  • Technological Advances: Farmers no longer carry heavy loads; instead, they use a “mountain train” to transport fruits, saving effort and reducing damage.
  • Marketing Evolution: In 2019, Wen Tao and his wife started live broadcasts, which quickly led to high sales. Now, almost every household in Xianju uses live streaming to promote their products—although their presentations may not be as professional as those of seasoned hosts, they are honest and provide clear information about their fruits.
  • Packaging Innovation: Wen Tao’s wife, Yashi, designs handmade, trendy gift boxes that are difficult for others to copy. They also use individualized packaging to prevent damage to the fruits, making them more presentable as gifts.

In summary, Xianju Yangmei has managed to maintain its reputation despite the scandal by adhering to regulations, paying attention to details, and adapting to changing consumer habits. This small fruit has become a vital economic pillar for the entire county.