虎嗅

Suzhou residents do not eat crab roe noodles, and Qingdao residents do not eat rice mixed with sea cucumbers.

原文:苏州人不吃蟹黄面,青岛人不吃海肠捞饭

Summary of the Core Content

This news reveals a “little secret” within the tourism industry: many of the “traditional dishes” that tourists consider essential to try in various cities are actually inventions from recent years, and locals rarely consume them. The reason these dishes have become “iconic” is due to commercial packaging and marketing driven by the tourism economy. While they satisfy tourists’ desire to check off local landmarks, they also generate traffic for businesses and cities. However, this has sparked debates about the authenticity of local food cultures.

Detailed Analysis

1. Why Create “Pseudo-Traditional Foods”? – Both Tourists and Cities Need “Check-In Points”

When tourists visit unfamiliar cities, one of their biggest concerns is deciding what to eat. They want a clear, representative dish that symbolizes the local culture—just like how they expect to eat roast duck in Beijing or roujiamo (a traditional dish) in Xi’an. Such “must-try lists” give tourists the feeling that their trip was worthwhile. Businesses and cities have recognized this need; creating “traditional dishes” not only provides tourists with a clear dining option but also helps to promote the city as a tourist attraction. For example, Suzhou’s crab roe noodles use local crab roe, but they have become an internet-famous dish only in recent years, essentially offering tourists a luxurious and authentic experience. The same is true for Qingdao’s sea cucumber rice, which combines local seafood with a dish that appeals to tourists looking for something unique and satisfying.

2. The Process of Turning New Dishes into “Traditions”: Old Ingredients + Stories + Internet Promotion

These “pseudo-traditional dishes” don’t emerge out of nowhere; there’s a well-established method behind their creation:

  • Using local ingredients to create new dishes: Ingredients like crab roe (from Suzhou) and sea cucumbers (from Qingdao) are recognized as part of the local culture, quickly establishing an sense of authenticity.
  • Inventing traditional stories: Businesses attach labels like “ancestral recipes” or “century-old traditions” to these dishes, making them seem historical even if they were invented just a couple of years ago.
  • Internet influencers and travel guides play a role: Videos on platforms like Douyin and REDnote, as well as recommendations in travel guides, help spread the popularity of these dishes. When tourists see that many people are eating them, they naturally assume they are traditional.

3. Why Don’t Locals Eat Them? – High Price, Unusual for Daily Life, and Different Taste

The reasons locals don’t buy into these dishes are practical:

  • High cost: A bowl of crab roe noodles can cost seventy to eighty yuan, and sea cucumber rice is also expensive; locals don’t spend that much on their daily meals.
  • Not in line with local eating habits: Locals prefer more affordable home-cooked dishes. For example, people in Suzhou often eat Aoziang noodles or steamed buns, while those in Qingdao prefer seafood porridge or spicy fried clams. These “internet-famous” dishes are too fancy for their daily diet.
  • Taste adjustments for tourists: To appeal to a wide range of tastes, these dishes are often tweaked, reducing the local flavors that locals find authentic.

4. The Dual Impact of This Phenomenon: Economic Benefits vs. Cultural Distortion

This trend isn’t entirely negative or positive:

  • Positive aspects: It boosts the tourism economy. These “internet-famous dishes” boost nearby restaurants and accommodations. For instance, the crab roe noodle shops on Pingjiang Road in Suzhou are always crowded during peak seasons, generating significant revenue for the local community.
  • Negative aspects: Tourists may feel deceived if they spend a lot of money only to eat something that’s not truly part of the local culture. Additionally, authentic local snacks (like Suzhou’s sugar porridge or Qingdao’s fatty residue rice) are overlooked because they aren’t packaged as “internet hits,” leading to their gradual disappearance from the market. Moreover, many cities’ “iconic dishes” start to look similar, with a uniform formula of high-end ingredients and internet-style preparation, losing their unique culinary characteristics.

5. How Should We View These “Pseudo-Traditional Foods”?

There’s no need to be too critical. If you just want to check off an item on your list or experience the “internet buzz,” it’s fine to try them once. However, if you really want to understand the local food culture, it’s better to ask locals or visit small restaurants in old neighborhoods, where you’ll find the real local flavors.

In conclusion, while these “pseudo-traditional foods” contribute to the economy, they can also lead to a distortion of cultural authenticity. For tourists, it’s important to be aware of these differences; for cities, promoting authentic local snacks is a better way to preserve their cultural heritage and offer visitors a more genuine dining experience.