虎嗅

"Let Go of Capital Obsessions: Yagor Faces Pressure and Turns a New Corner"

原文:放下资本执念,雅戈尔承压转身

Summary of Key Points

After taking over as the new chairman, Li Hanqiong, Yagor has begun to completely transform the traditional business model of this established clothing company, which has focused on heavy investment while neglecting its core manufacturing operations. On one hand, the company is deepening its presence in the clothing industry by acquiring overseas brands (such as outdoor, fashion, and luxury children's clothing) and integrating distribution channels (by purchasing Yintai Commercial). On the other hand, it has established an industrial venture capital fund to invest in cutting-edge technologies related to clothing, such as new materials and intelligent manufacturing, rather than relying on short-term financial stock trading. Although this transformation comes with short-term profit pressures, it is aimed at helping Yagor move away from homogeneous competition and transform into a high-value brand group.

1. Major Shift in Investment Logic: From “Short-Term Stock Trading” to “Long-Term Industry Investment”

Yagor's past strategy for generating profits was simple: buying stocks and financial assets (such as Ningbo Bank and CITIC Securities) to earn dividends and profit from price differences. This approach stabilized the company's cash flow for decades, but in 2024, its financial assets suffered a loss of 3 billion yuan, clearly exposing the drawbacks of prioritizing capital over manufacturing. The new chairman, Li Hanqiong, took the first significant step by partnering with a professional venture capital firm to establish a fund. Yagor contributed 51.5 million yuan (99.9%) and jointly invested 50 million yuan with Yarong Capital in an emerging company. The focus of this investment is on technologies that can enhance clothing quality (such as more durable materials and more efficient manufacturing processes). The partner, Guo Junhai, has experience in the aerospace venture capital sector, but Yagor has made it clear that they will not invest in military or aerospace-related areas; instead, they will focus on technologies that can boost the clothing business. This represents a fundamental shift from short-term speculation to long-term investment in the company's core operations.

2. Expansion of the Brand Portfolio: From “Single Men’s Clothing” to “Comprehensive Coverage”

Yagor used to rely mainly on men’s clothing, but the market for this segment is becoming increasingly niche, leading to growth stagnation. Since 2021, Li Hanqiong has been actively acquiring brands:

  • He acquired the rights to operate the Helly Hansen brand in Greater China (outdoor clothing);
  • Invested 400 million yuan to acquire a 40% stake in the American fashion brand UNDEFEATED (youthful and trendy market);
  • Purchased the French luxury children’s clothing brand Bonpoint;
  • Also entered the luxury leather goods (CORTHAY) and high-end fashion (Alexander Wang) sectors.

Today, Yagor's brand portfolio covers a wide range of markets, from business attire to outdoor apparel, targeting both young trendsetters and premium consumers. The company aims to become a multi-brand group similar to Anta, which successfully transformed by acquiring FILA and Asics.

3. Integration of Distribution Channels: From “Depending on Others” to “Building a Self-Sufficient Network”

Having brands is not enough; you also need distribution channels. Yagor previously had scattered outlets in various malls, but now Li Hanqiong has taken direct control by:

  • Acquiring stores in key shopping areas from MBX Fashion;
  • Spending 7.4 billion yuan to acquire a 99% stake in Yintai Commercial, which owns 64 stores in major shopping centers nationwide and also operates an online platform.

This move creates a self-sufficient sales network for Yagor, allowing it to control its品牌形象 more effectively. With its own distribution system, Yagor can sell all its brands both online and offline, improving efficiency.

4. Challenges of Transformation: Short-Term Pain vs. Long-Term Value

While the transformation is the right direction, there are significant short-term challenges:

  • The 2025 annual report shows a 9.3% increase in revenue from the fashion segment (due to the rapid expansion of new brands like Bonpoint), but net profit decreased by 77.75%, mainly due to high costs associated with brand promotion and store renovations after acquisitions;
  • New brands have low recognition among Chinese consumers; for example, many people are unfamiliar with Bonpoint, so it will take time to build its reputation;
  • Compared to Anta, which has already completed its transformation, Yagor is still in the learning phase.

However, the management’s determination is clear: they are reducing their holdings in financial assets and focusing resources on the clothing business. By abandoning the strategy of making quick profits through stock trading, they recognize the long-term value of the clothing industry. Consumers are now willing to pay a premium for branded products, and Yagor’s goal is to localize these overseas brands and establish its own competitive advantage.

5. Staying True to Tradition while Breaking New Ground

The former chairman, Li Rucheng, expressed confidence in the new team in his letter to shareholders, acknowledging Li Hanqiong’s transformation efforts. Yagor began as a small clothing factory in Ningbo and grew through production and sales, but the industry landscape has changed. Simply selling clothes is no longer enough to generate high profits; brand strength and efficiency are essential. Li Hanqiong’s task is not just to maintain the status quo but to address past shortcomings by improving brands, distribution channels, and technology, transforming Yagor from a traditional clothing factory into a high-value brand group. Although the path ahead is long, the direction is correct: by adapting to consumer trends and pursuing differentiation, Yagor can avoid competition and achieve success.

In summary, Yagor is undergoing a profound transformation from a company that focused on short-term financial gains to a true clothing enterprise. This is not an easy task for an established brand, but it is the only way to ensure long-term sustainability. Only by strengthening its core business can Yagor continue to thrive in the market.