虎嗅

Why has duck meat become the "universal substitute" for other meats in the meat product industry?

原文:充牛羊、冒鹅腿,鸭肉为何成肉制品“万能替身”?

Summary of Key Points

Recently, there have been several cases of food fraud where duck meat has been passed off as beef or mutton in various restaurants (such as skewer shops and “Goose Leg Aunt” restaurants). Duck meat has become the “universal substitute” in the meat industry due to its low price, abundant supply, and ease of disguise. This practice not only violates food safety laws but also poses potential health risks from substandard ingredients and undermines industry integrity and market order. To address this issue, a comprehensive approach is needed, focusing on three key areas: refining regulations, increasing the cost of fraud, and implementing strict supervision throughout the entire supply chain.

Detailed Analysis

Why Duck Meat Can Serve as a “Universal Substitute”? The Main Reason is the Large Price Difference

The fundamental motivation for merchants to engage in this fraud is profit. For example, at the Xinfadi market in Beijing, the wholesale price of Bai Tiao Hu ducks is only 7 yuan per pound, while beef and mutton cost over 30 yuan per pound—a difference of more than four times. Selling one pound of “fake beef or mutton” yields a profit of more than 20 yuan, which is sufficient to encourage many merchants to overlook legal restrictions. Additionally, with the continuous growth in demand for beef and mutton domestically and a significant supply gap, cheap duck meat has become the preferred choice for fraud.

Where Does the “Fake Duck Meat” Come From? Abundant Supply and Low Cost

Duck meat is a popular choice for fraud because it is easy to raise and produce in large quantities:

  • Fast Growth: The mainstream Cherry Valley duck in China can be ready for market within 40 days, compared to several months or even a year for beef and mutton.
  • High Production Capacity: In 2025, the national output of meat ducks reached 4.382 billion, with an ongoing increase.
  • Utilization of By-products: High-value parts like duck necks, feet, and tongues are sold first, leaving the remaining carcass and scraps at low prices, which are then used by fraudsters. These by-products not only solve the issue of dealing with duck meat by-products but also provide the necessary ingredients for fraud.

Why Don’t Consumers Notice? Similar Taste and Strong Flavors Mask the Difference

Many people wonder how they can’t tell the difference between beef/mutton and duck meat. There are two main reasons:

  • Natural Disguise: The texture of duck meat is similar to that of beef and mutton, and its slight fishy smell matches their natural odor. Merchants can simply process it (e.g., by adding flavorings) to create a convincing imitation.
  • Contextual Consumption: Fake meat is often used in dishes with strong flavors like hot pot and spicy food, where spices like Sichuan pepper and cumin completely mask the taste of duck. As a result, ordinary consumers have difficulty detecting the fraud.

The Hazards of Such Fraud: It’s Not Just About Mislabeling

The consequences of using duck meat to impersonate beef or mutton are more serious than just a simple mistake:

  • Legal Violations: According to food safety laws, this is considered “adulteration” and a clear violation.
  • Health Risks: Fake duck meat may come from unlicensed small workshops with poor processing conditions, potentially containing harmful additives such as flavorings, binders, and preservatives.
  • Industry Impact: It erodes consumer trust in the food industry, harms the businesses of legitimate merchants, and disrupts the overall market order for meat products.

How to Solve the Problem? Comprehensive Measures Are Needed

To restore the authenticity of meat products, we must address the issue at its root:

  • Refine Regulations: Establish clear guidelines for the proportion of main ingredients in processed and synthetic meats (e.g., specifying the minimum amount of beef in “beef-based” products), naming conventions, and labeling requirements to eliminate loopholes.
  • Increase Penalties: Increase the frequency of inspections and impose severe fines on fraudsters, including adding them to credit blacklists to deter future offenses.
  • Strict Supervision: Ensure comprehensive oversight from small workshops to online food delivery services and street vendors. Improve traceability systems so that food platforms can verify the origin of ingredients, with a focus on popular restaurants and informal markets.

Ingredients themselves are not inherently superior or inferior; duck meat is no exception. However, using it for fraud undermines market integrity. Only by ensuring that every piece of meat matches its label can we truly protect everyone’s safety.