第一财经

New regulations for cosmetic ingredients are implemented, paving the way for systematic innovation in the industry.

原文:化妆品新原料新规落地,行业创新迎来系统性松绑

Summary of Key Points

In June 2026, the National Medical Products Administration issued the "Regulations on the Registration and Filing of New Cosmetic Ingredients and Related Documentation" (the new regulations), which came into effect on July 15. Following previous policy changes in 2023 and 2025, this is another significant relaxation in the field of cosmetic ingredients. By adjusting risk classifications, reducing or exempting toxicology tests, expanding testing methods, and easing stability requirements, the new regulations aim to reduce the burden on companies developing new ingredients while maintaining safety standards. These changes will directly lower costs for companies (saving over 3.5 million yuan per ingredient) and accelerate the market launch of new products, thereby promoting industry innovation and reducing China's dependence on imported cosmetic ingredients. Ultimately, consumers will have access to a wider range of high-quality products.

Detailed Interpretation

1. Streamlined Risk Classifications

Previously, functions such as anti-hair loss and acne treatment were classified as "high-risk," requiring companies to submit extensive and complex documentation for approval. The new regulations, drawing on experiences from the European Union and Japan, have reduced the number of high-risk categories to five (anti-corrosion, sun protection, coloring, hair dyeing, and skin whitening), removing anti-hair loss, acne treatment, dandruff removal, and anti-wrinkling from this list.

Practical Impact: For example, if a company wants to develop a new anti-hair loss ingredient, it no longer needs to follow the more stringent procedures; the documentation requirements have been simplified, making the application process easier. This is like shortening a lengthy checklist, allowing some ingredients to skip special approval processes and saving time and effort.

2. Reduced Toxicology Tests

Safety assessments are the most costly and time-consuming part of the new ingredient approval process. The new regulations utilize advanced technologies such as AI and digital toxicology to exempt certain ingredients from acute toxicity and reproductive development toxicity tests if they have a history of safe use in food or other applications. For instance, ingredients like goji berries and aloe vera, which are commonly used in food, do not require additional animal testing when used in cosmetics.

Direct Benefits: According to Yan Jiangying, president of the China Fragrance and Cosmetics Industry Association, this alone can save companies 3.5 million yuan and one to three years in development time. For small and medium-sized enterprises, this means saving significant money and generating revenue more quickly.

3. Expanded Acceptance of International Testing Methods

Previously, when applying for new ingredients, domestic testing methods specified in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specifications" had to be used. However, many international ingredients use different but equally scientific testing methods. The new regulations allow the use of internationally recognized data, eliminating the need for repeated tests. Additionally, the requirements for alternative animal tests have been relaxed; instead of submitting data for ten known toxic substances, companies only need to provide a methodological explanation and verification from authoritative institutions.

Improved Efficiency: This is similar to bringing a local health certificate from abroad—domestic authorities will accept it without requiring another medical examination.

4. Accelerated Stability Testing

Stability tests (e.g., checking for product deterioration over six months or a year) are essential for cosmetic ingredients. The new regulations allow companies to apply for approval as long as basic stability tests show the ingredient is stable or can be safely stored (e.g., in refrigeration). This speeds up the process, allowing companies to bring new products to market earlier. For example, what used to take a year can now be done in just three months, with annual reports documenting the actual stability of the ingredients.

5. Policy Relaxation Leads to Growth

China has been heavily dependent on imported cosmetic ingredients: the self-sufficiency rate for common ingredients is around 60%, while key active ingredients rely on imports for over 70%. In the first 30 years after 2021, only about ten new ingredients were approved; after the policy relaxation, more than 370 were registered during the "14th Five-Year Plan" period, with 171 in 2025 (169 filed and 2 registered). In the first quarter of 2026, 50 new ingredients were filed, representing a 66.67% increase year-on-year, without any safety incidents.

The new regulations have significantly stimulated innovation, leading to a surge in domestic new ingredient development. This will reduce China's reliance on imports and enable the cosmetics industry to produce more distinctive and effective products, potentially giving it a competitive advantage in the global market.

Conclusion

The core of the new regulations is a scientific approach that aims to reduce burdens on companies while maintaining safety standards. By doing so, the regulations not only encourage greater investment in research and development but also help transform China from a country that imports cosmetic ingredients into one that innovates them. The ultimate beneficiaries are consumers, who will have access to safer and more effective products, as well as the entire industry, which will enhance its global competitiveness.