虎嗅

Don't rush to cook; prepare in advance. This generation of consumers has really turned things upside down with their demand for Tài Er pickled fish dishes.

原文:不要现炒要预制,这届消费者给太二酸菜鱼整不会了

Summary of Key Points

Tai Er’s Pickled Fish restaurant faced a major crisis due to the revelation that its claim of “freshly prepared fish” was a lie. The company then made a dramatic shift to a “freshly cooked on-site” model, but consumers were quick to criticize the changes: higher prices, reduced portions, and a decline in taste. Some even called for a return to the pre-prepared food format. Behind these issues were the operational pressures faced by its parent company, Jiu Mao Jiu—135 stores were closed in one year, revenue plummeted, and customer turnover rates were halved. Tai Er’s attempt at transformation was essentially a change in branding, but it failed to address what consumers really cared about: value for money and good taste.

Why Did Tai Er Go Through Such a Transformation?

In September 2025, media reports confirmed that the 6-minute preparation time for Tai Er’s Pickled Fish dish was actually due to pre-prepared ingredients, shattering the company’s “freshly prepared on-site” marketing claim. At that time, the entire catering industry was wary of being associated with pre-prepared food, as it was labeled as a “high-tech, cost-effective strategy.” Xi Bei suffered significant criticism for not clearly distinguishing its products from pre-prepared ones, and Tai Er had no choice but to change its approach, abandoning its central kitchen system in favor of on-site cooking at each store. However, consumers were unimpressed; while they previously criticized pre-prepared food, they now demanded that Tai Er revert to its previous method.

How Has the New Tai Er Changed?

1. A Change in Atmosphere: The restaurant’s decor has shifted from a minimalist, black-and-white style to a more “relaxed and casual” vibe with beige walls, wooden tables and chairs, and tropical green plants, resembling small taverns in Yunnan, Guizhou, and Sichuan.

2. Menu Expansion: In addition to Pickled Fish, the menu now includes dishes like Mapo Tofu and Cantonese Braised Chicken, aiming to transform from a “pickled fish specialist” into a more general-purpose dining establishment.

3. Emphasis on “Freshness: The restaurant has started to emphasize freshness, with transparent kitchens, signs displaying the number of fresh fish delivered daily, and a menu that indicates the degree of freshness of each dish. The official account even posts photos of fresh fish in the comments section.

Consumer Complaints:

1. Hidden Price Increases: The fish used has changed from less-fined bass to more-fined black fish, with no price increase, but additional 9 yuan charged for side dishes that were previously free.

2. Reduced Portion Sizes: Customers have noticed that the amount of fish in the new version of Pickled Fish is significantly less, and the dish doesn’t provide a satisfying feeling of fullness.

3. Decline in Taste: The use of freshly caught fish leads to stronger fishy flavors, and the quality of the fish fillets varies; sometimes, the fish is overcooked or undercooked. Even the signature pickled vegetables have become less flavorful, with fewer ingredients (even the chrysanthemums on top are missing).

4. Regional Differences: While the Guangdong branch still offers bass as an option (indicating better quality control), other locations only serve black fish, which has led to complaints from non-Guangdong customers.

Operational Pressures Behind the Changes:

Tai Er’s transformation was not out of a desire for improvement but due to dire financial circumstances:

  • Store Closures: The number of stores decreased from 634 to 499 in 2025, with one closing every three days.
  • Revenue Decline: Annual revenue fell by 15.7% to 3.72 billion yuan.
  • Customer Turnover Rates Halved: At its peak, a single table could serve 4.9 groups of customers per day; now, only 2.2 groups can be served, meaning most tables are idle for long periods.
  • Previous Branding Failures: The company previously refused to offer delivery services and limited seating to small groups, but these measures were temporary attempts to boost performance.

Consumers See Through the Changes:

Consumers believe that Tai Er’s constant changes are merely attempts at changing its branding without addressing the core issues. They argue that their complaints are not about pre-prepared food in general but about the company’s use of such ingredients while charging higher prices. The new “freshly cooked” format has not improved the taste or value for money. In contrast to Pizza Sala, which openly uses pre-prepared ingredients at lower prices, Tai Er’s attempts at differentiation seem insincere. Consumers conclude: “If you can’t handle preparing fresh fish properly, just stick to using pre-prepared ingredients and don’t overcomplicate things!”

Conclusion: Tai Er’s dilemma highlights the problem of brands putting too much emphasis on their image over the quality of their products. What consumers really want is value for money. Instead of constantly changing its approach, Tai Er should focus on providing delicious and affordable food—after all, that’s what makes a good restaurant successful.