虎嗅

The "Life in Prison" Polo Shirt is Back – and Now Its Collar is Standing Up Again!

原文:被判土刑终身的POLO衫回来了,领子也立起来了

Summary of Key Points

The POLO shirt, once associated with negative connotations such as being "messed up" by Chinese rural men, cheap Western uniforms, or far-right organizations, has made a comeback in 2026. Sales have skyrocketed, and search trends have surged, with fashion media predicting it to be a hot item of the year. This resurgence is not just due to improvements in design and materials but also reflects people's desire for "stability" and classic, reliable items in an era of economic uncertainty, geopolitical conflicts, and AI-driven disruptions.

I. The POLO Shirt in China: From Elite Symbol to Symbol of Clumsiness

Originally a garment for Western elites in the 1950s, the POLO shirt underwent a "localization transformation" in China:

  • Early Success: In the early 21st century, when the business casual trend gained popularity, the POLO became a symbol of elegance. White-collar workers in foreign companies wore it, appearing more professional than T-shirts and more relaxed than shirts.
  • Decline: When it became a basic item worn by everyone (for example, rural man Xie Guangkun wearing one in the TV show "Struggle"), it was immediately labeled as "clumsy." In 2007, Tong Dawei's POLO with a stand-up collar was considered stylish, but five years later, it had become a symbol of tackiness. Fashion is fickle; when everyone wears something, it loses its coolness.

II. The POLO Shirt in the West: Stigmatized as a Uniform and Linked to Far-Right Groups

In the West, the POLO shirt has an even worse reputation:

  • Uniform Controversy: In the early 21st century, companies used it as cheap employee uniforms with shoddy materials and unsightly designs, turning it from an elite item into a standard for workers, diminishing its prestige.
  • Political Associations: North American far-right groups like the "Proud Boys" used Fred Perry POLOs in black and yellow, leading the brand to discontinue that color combination. As a result, the POLO shirt was labeled as conservative and extreme, with many negative comments on social media platforms like Reddit.

III. Signs of Revival: Data and Fashion Circles Confirm the "POLO Comeback"

The sudden popularity of POLO shirts in 2026 is supported by concrete evidence:

  • Surging Sales: The POLO shirt worn by British coach Tuchel sold 126,000 units at Marks & Spencer, generating £3.1 million in revenue.
  • Increased Search Volume: Google trends show a 80% increase in POLO searches compared to five years ago, with Pinterest seeing a 120% rise in the past year.
  • Fashion Media Endorsement: Magazines like GQ and VOGUE predict that the POLO shirt, along with zip-up jackets, will be the hottest items of 2026. This version of the POLO features loose, flattering designs, colorful details, and a shorter silhouette that aligns with current fashion trends.

IV. Why the Popularity Now? The Desire for "Stability" in an Uncertain Era

The revival of the POLO shirt is not accidental but a response to the feelings of uncertainty we live in:

  • Classics = Reliability: With economic fluctuations and AI changing common perceptions, people seek something that remains constant. The POLO, being a classic for decades, provides a sense of comfort.
  • Nostalgia for a Certain Style: GQ columnists note that men are imitating the attire of 1983 CIA agents in 2026—standing-collar POLOs and khaki pants represent a "reliable, composed" image, in contrast to the muscular, tattooed soldiers in Hollywood movies. People yearn for the stability of that "real adult" style.

V. The Return of the Stand-Up Collar: From Ridicule to a Trendy Favorite

The stand-up collar, once criticized as pretentious (like using an umbrella in a room or wearing sunglasses at a restaurant), has now become a symbol of fashion:

  • A Cycle of Fashion: The stand-up collar was initially designed for functionality and later popularized by rebellious stars like James Dean. It was mocked in the 1980s as a sign of extravagance but has recently resurfaced through the #poppedcollar trend on TikTok.
  • The Message Behind the Trend: It's not just a simple revival; it conveys a message of "classical reliability" in an uncertain time, with "old-fashioned" styles becoming the new trend.

In Conclusion

The rise and fall of the POLO shirt reflect the cyclical nature of fashion and the changing psychology of society. In times of turmoil, people crave things that have stood the test of time—even something that was once dismissed as "clumsy."