虎嗅

The Mobius Loop of the Old Shop's Gold

原文:老铺黄金的莫比乌斯环

Summary of Key Points

Lao Pu Huang Jin (Old Shop Gold) attempts to break away from the conventional pricing model of gold, which is based on weight per gram, by positioning itself as a product that combines "traditional craftsmanship with Eastern luxury." However, it remains trapped within the cycles of gold prices. When gold prices rise, the company relies on delayed price adjustments, purchasing through agents for arbitrage, and promotional campaigns to boost sales. Conversely, when prices fall, the high markups become evident, leading consumers to focus on the cost per gram, causing agents to withdraw and sales to decline. Its capital-intensive model (direct-operated stores, large inventory) depends on price increases to maintain its gross profit margin. Nevertheless, compared to true luxury brands, there are fundamental differences due to the transparency of gold costs, lower margins, and difficulties in controlling production. Currently, the company is trying to revive itself by launching new products and making subtle price reductions. The future success will depend on whether it can sustain its gross profit margin, improve inventory turnover, and manage its cash flow effectively.

I. The Rollercoaster of Gold Prices: An Inescapable Reality

The most frustrating aspect for Lao Pu Huang Jin is that the more it tries to establish itself as a luxury brand, the more it is influenced by gold price fluctuations:

  • When prices rise: The company profits easily. In 2025, despite a 54.8% increase in gold prices, Lao Pu only raised its prices by 45%, lagging behind the market trend. As a result, its high markups seemed more affordable, and combined with discounts and credit card returns, the actual purchase price was even lower. Consumers saw this as an opportunity to buy at a discount, with agents purchasing in bulk (for example, SKP stores in Beijing accounted for 40% of sales). First-quarter sales approached 20 billion yuan, 62% of the annual total, with a net profit margin exceeding 20%.
  • When prices fall: The company's luxury image is compromised. In 2026, when gold prices plummeted, its markups returned to sky-high levels (55% higher than traditional jewelry retailers). Consumers realized that the products were more expensive per gram and questioned the value of buying them. Agents also stopped purchasing, leading to a 40%-60% decline in SKP store sales compared to the same period last year, and Tmall's 618 shopping festival did not meet expectations.

In short, when gold prices rise, Lao Pu Huang Jin positions itself as both a luxury and an investment product; but when prices fall, it reverts to being just expensive gold.

II. The Illusory Prosperity Supported by Agents: Arbitrage during Peak Times

A significant portion of Lao Pu Huang Jin's sales success was driven by agents, not by genuine luxury enthusiasts:

  • Why the frenzy among agents? Before the 2025 Spring Festival, agents in Beijing SKP purchased goods at a 15% discount (customers gave up their points, which were then resold for profit). The opportunity to make quick profits, coupled with the holiday season, led to bulk purchases. SKP stores received 40% of their revenue from agents, a much higher proportion than other luxury malls.
  • Agents withdraw when prices fall: Without expected price increases, there is no room for arbitrage. As a result, SKP store sales dropped by 40%-60% in April, and Tmall's 618 event was also unsuccessful.

III. Price Increases: Not a Luxury Privilege, but a Necessity for Survival

Lao Pu Huang Jin raises its prices 2-3 times a year not because of its brand strength, but due to the fragility of its business model. It relies on price increases to cover costs:

  • Why no hedging? Traditional jewelry stores use hedging strategies to lock in prices, but Lao Pu refuses, arguing that selling "fixed-price luxury products" would undermine its luxury image.
  • The cost of maintaining a high-end image: Operating directly and owning large inventory (for display and stockpiling) forces price increases. By the end of 2025, its inventory had reached 16 billion yuan, with borrowing rising from 1.4 billion to 6.3 billion yuan, and it also raised an additional 5.4 billion Hong Kong dollars in financing. All profits were invested in gold inventory, leaving it with consistently negative cash flows. Price increases are necessary to maintain a gross profit margin of around 40%.
  • Difficulties when prices fall: With the decline in gold prices in the second quarter of 2026, the cost of its high inventory increased, making further price hikes less appealing to consumers. Without price increases, its gross profit margin would be further squeezed, and cash flows would become even more strained.

IV. A Long Way from True Luxury: Surface Similarities, Fundamental Differences

Although Lao Pu Huang Jin is located next to luxury brands like LV, the differences lie in the underlying business models:

  • Cost transparency: Gold prices are public, so consumers can easily compare markups. In contrast, the cost of materials used by luxury brands like Hermes is hidden from the general public. Lao Pu's highest gross profit margin is 40%, while Hermes can reach 70%. Lower margins make it harder to manage inventory and distribution costs.
  • Production control: Hermes can limit production to create a sense of scarcity, but Lao Pu cannot afford to do the same with gold, as high inventory ties up significant capital. If sales slow down, the company faces financial difficulties.
  • Symbolic value: Lao Pu's products are popular symbols, while luxury brands use niche aesthetics to distinguish themselves (e.g., Hermes avoids mass-market appeal). Its customer base includes both scalpers and ordinary consumers, whereas luxury brands target wealthy individuals with a distinct taste.

Malls place Lao Pu Huang Jin next to LV not because of its luxury status, but because it generates high sales per square meter (5 million yuan at SKP Beijing), helping malls meet their performance targets.

V. Current Measures and Future Challenges

Lao Pu Huang Jin's current strategies are makeshift:

  • New products: The company is launching new products with added elements like diamonds and crosses to make them less dependent on price per gram.
  • Subtle price cuts: It reduces prices indirectly, such as setting lower prices for new items (e.g., 2594 yuan per gram for a cross, compared to 2789 yuan for the classic version) and increasing discount offers. However, it avoids explicit price reductions to maintain its luxury image.

The company faces several challenges in the coming quarters:

  • Gross profit margin stability: High inventory and declining demand may lead to further margin reductions.
  • Inventory turnover: If the 16 billion yuan in inventory cannot be sold, cash flows will be even tighter.
  • Turning negative cash flows into positives: The company has been operating with negative cash flows; sales declines could worsen this situation.

If these issues are not resolved, Lao Pu Huang Jin's dream of becoming a true luxury brand may come to an end.

Conclusion

Lao Pu Huang Jin's dilemma lies in the contradiction between its gold-based business and its desire to become a luxury brand. The transparency and volatility of gold prices prevent it from escaping this reality. While price increases can provide temporary gains, they also expose the company's vulnerabilities. To succeed, it must either find a way to create a genuine luxury value that consumers are willing to pay for (design and culture) or return to its core business model. Either path is fraught with difficulties.