Summary of Key Points
Stalls, once a source of sustenance for the poor, have seen their prices soar to match those of chain restaurants, yet the quality has not kept up. This change reflects a shift in the demographics of stall owners from mere livelihood providers to young entrepreneurs with mid-class aesthetics. The pricing logic has shifted from cost-oriented to market-based, with influencer check-ins and short-video promotion turning stalls into businesses focused on creating content. The increased costs associated with unified franchise fees and food safety concerns have transformed stalls from a social employment buffer into a high-investment, low-risk entrepreneurial venture driven by capital and traffic.
1. Why Have Stalls Changed From Being Affordable to Expensive?
In the past, stalls were a benefit for the poor: 5 yuan for a meal of fried noodles, 2 yuan for a sausage, with owners even adding bean sprouts to ensure customers had enough to eat. Today, a cup of lemon tea costs 15 yuan, more than a bubble tea shop; turkey noodles cost over 20 yuan for just a few bites, and hamburgers have reached 30 yuan. Data from third parties shows that the average transaction value at stalls has increased by 87% in the past five years, which is more than 16 times the annual growth rate of residents' income (5.2%). This is not just about rising prices; it's about a change in the purpose of stalls, which is now about creating experiences rather than simply providing food.
2. The Change in Stall Owners: From Making a Living to Entrepreneurship
In the past, stall owners were laid-off workers and migrant workers who priced their goods to cover costs. Today, the main demographic includes those born in the 1990s and 2000s—white-collar employees who have been fired, college students unable to find jobs, and workers from large companies undergoing restructuring. They approach entrepreneurship with a dream of success, setting up stalls with white tables, hanging warm yellow lights, and offering English menus. Their pricing is based on similar products found in restaurants: for example, a hamburger that costs 50 yuan in a restaurant may be sold for 30 yuan at a stall, which is cheaper than the restaurant version but still more expensive than traditional street food. This shift has disrupted the traditional concept of value for money at stalls.
3. The Dominance of Traffic: Appearance and Appeal Over Taste
The competition at stalls now revolves around attracting traffic rather than culinary skills. A sign that says “I miss you from this place,” a stall featured by an influencer on REDnote, or a product promoted in short videos is more valuable than the expertise of a chef with 20 years of experience making fried noodles. For instance, a simple sausage stall might sell for 3 yuan, but if it's packaged as a “fashionable starch sausage” with proper lighting and marketing, it can sell for 5 or even 8 yuan. These additional costs (for video production, live streaming, and promotions) are ultimately passed on to consumers.
4. Higher Stall Fees: Stalls Have Become High-Investment Ventures
Stalls used to be a low-cost form of entrepreneurship without the need for rent. Now, night markets have adopted unified franchise models with fixed prices, and a regular stall can cost 5,000 to 8,000 yuan in monthly rent, plus utilities and other expenses, making them as costly as small restaurants. Many young people think starting a stall is a low-risk venture, but high rents often become a major obstacle. Moreover, claims of earning tens of thousands per month from selling goods on short videos are often scams, with influencers selling “training courses” or franchise rights instead of the products themselves.
5. The Hidden Danger of Food Safety
In addition to higher prices, food safety is a concern. Popular stalls, especially those promoted by influencers, often face risks such as unhygienic practices (cutting food outdoors, storing raw eggs in hot car trunks for hours, lacking cold storage for cheese, and exposing finished products to the sun). Tiramisu, which requires precise temperature control and hygiene, is a prime example of a product that fails to meet safety standards at stalls. Consumers may end up with more than just a tasty treat but also potential health issues.
6. The Loss of the “Casual, Homey Atmosphere” of Stalls
Stalls once provided a warm, familiar environment during difficult economic times—helping people survive during periods of urbanization, state-owned enterprise reforms, and financial crises. Now, capital and traffic have transformed them into businesses focused on visual appeal, with prices rising and risks increasing, making them unaffordable for the very people they were designed to serve. This is perhaps the most regrettable aspect of their transformation: what should have been a grassroots platform has become a playground for capital and traffic.
In summary, while stalls have evolved to adapt to new economic realities, they have lost much of their original charm and purpose, becoming high-investment ventures that cater more to the needs of investors and influencers than to the needs of the poor.