Summary of Key Points
Michelin Guide makes its debut in the wine industry with the launch of the “MICHELIN Grape” special ranking, starting in Burgundy, France. A total of 94 wineries were selected and are categorized into four levels: “Three Grapes,” “Two Grapes,” “One Grape,” and a “Select List.” However, the ranking has faced challenges almost immediately—some listed wineries have requested to be removed from the list. The industry generally believes that its short-term market impact is limited, and its long-term credibility will take time to build. There are plans to expand the ranking to more regions, including Bordeaux in the future.
Detailed Analysis
1. From Concept to Reality: The Nine-Month Journey to Create a Wine Ranking
Michelin’s decision to create a wine ranking was not sudden. In October 2025, when the hotel rankings were announced, officials hinted about expanding the series to include wines. Two months later (in December), the selection criteria and the first regions for evaluation (Burgundy and Bordeaux) were finalized. The release of the Burgundy ranking was anticipated for July 2026, and it officially came out on July 7th.
The evaluation criteria consist of five aspects: the quality of grapes grown in the vineyards (agricultural practices), winemaking techniques, the unique style of the wine, balance of flavors, and consistency of quality, which are applied uniformly worldwide. The judging panel consists of international experts (former sommeliers, wine critics, and winemakers) who use both collective and individual evaluations. Unlike the restaurant rankings, which are updated annually, the wine ranking may be adjusted periodically to assess the stability of wines across different vintages.
2. The 94 Wineries on the List: What Do the Different Levels Represent?
The first Burgundy ranking includes 94 wineries:
- Three Grapes (9 wineries): These are the most prestigious producers, whose wines can be trusted regardless of the vintage (e.g., top-tier estates like Romanée-Conti and Le Pinot).
- Two Grapes (20 wineries): Outstanding producers who perform consistently well in their local terroirs (for example, the well-known French estate Lefleur).
- One Grape (33 wineries): High-quality wines with distinct personalities, especially outstanding in good vintages.
- Select List (32 wineries): Wineries that have consistently produced reliable products over time.
It’s worth noting that all nine of the highest-ranked wineries are from the Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune, the core regions of Burgundy. The Châteauneuf-du-Pape region only has three wineries on the list; regions like Macon and Chablis were not included (officially, it’s just a temporary omission, with the possibility of inclusion in the future).
3. The Evaluation Process: Focus on Substance Over Reputation
Michelin’s approach to this ranking deviates from the usual criteria:
- No bias towards reputation or size: The highest level includes both established estates like Romanée-Conti and smaller wineries that may not even possess a single Grand Cru vineyard (e.g., Jean-Marc & Thomas Blie). Some well-known wines in the Chinese market (such as “Shuanggu Baoshu” and “Caidao”) were not selected.
- Emphasis on practical skills: For example, two wineries owned by Madame Le Pinot (Le Pinot and Avigny) received the “Three Grapes” rating due to their excellent vineyard management and winemaking techniques.
- Priority given to core regions: The Côte de Nuits (37 wineries) and Côte de Beaune (54 wineries) account for 91% of the total, as these are the premium areas of Burgundy, producing higher-quality wines.
4. Industry Reactions: A Bright Halo, but Limited Short-Term Impact
Although Michelin has a strong brand influence, the wine industry’s response is mixed:
- Importers: The rankings are considered a reference only and do not affect purchasing decisions; importers say they still base their choices on market demand and price. It’s difficult to sell wines from less well-known estates unless specifically requested by customers.
- Sommeliers: The ranking is useful for lesser-known wineries but may have little impact on top-tier estates like Romanée-Conti. However, it could help these smaller producers gain recognition among consumers over time.
- Challenges: Some wineries have requested to be removed from the list; the reason for Amourachia’s withdrawal is unknown, suggesting potential controversy around the rankings.
- Long-Term Uncertainties: Wine evaluation is more complex than restaurant ratings, considering factors like vintage and terroir differences, as well as subjective taste judgments. Michelin needs several years to establish credibility in this new area. Similar issues were raised with the hotel rankings in the past, where critics argued that the highest-rated hotels were often the most expensive.
In summary, Michelin’s wine ranking is a novel attempt, but it still has a long way to go before it becomes as authoritative as its restaurant rankings. In the short term, it may provide consumers with an additional option when choosing wines. In the long run, its success will depend on its ability to resolve industry controversies and gain widespread market recognition.