Summary of Key Points
The price of crayfish has dropped by half (wholesale prices have decreased by 20% to 60%), but young people no longer exclaim about the "freedom" that comes with eating crayfish. The reason is not that they are not cheap enough, but rather because the experience of eating them is too troublesome (peeling takes time and leaves hands greasy), and the quality of the food is poor (low-price packages often contain less meat than promised, with many empty shells). Additionally, as young people's consumption preferences shift from a chaotic and unrestrained style to something more refined and controllable, coupled with an imbalance between supply and demand due to the expansion of crayfish farming, crayfish have moved from being a mainstream internet sensation to a regional delicacy. They are now seeking new ways to be consumed through pre-packaged dishes and individual servings.
Detailed Analysis
1. No one celebrates the decrease in crayfish prices: Being cheap doesn't equal being a good deal
When prices of products like Sunshine Roses and blueberries drop, people celebrate because they can enjoy them directly with a good eating experience. However, when crayfish prices fall, there is little excitement. The issue lies in the perceived value for money:
- High hassle cost: Spending hours peeling crayfish results in only a small amount of meat, leaving you feeling tired and disappointed.
- Deceptive low-price packages: Group-buying options at 9.9 yuan per pound often contain less than promised (for example, 5 pounds may actually weigh only 3 pounds), and the crayfish used are small and have large shells, resulting in less actual meat for the money spent.
- Consumers don't really benefit: Although the cost of raw materials has decreased, restaurant rent and labor costs remain unchanged, so low prices are more of a marketing gimmick. If the supply doesn't match demand, consumers are dissatisfied.
2. The once-popular factors: Social interaction + the thrill of chaos
The success of crayfish was driven by three key elements:
- Social bonding: Eating crayfish required putting down phones to peel them, forcing people to engage in conversation with friends. Both owners and staff ended up with greasy hands, temporarily blurring social hierarchies—a phenomenon Professor Zhang Zhanhong described as "de-classification," which made it perfect for gathering together.
- Capital investment and rapid expansion of stores: Capital entered the market in 2015, leading to a 140,000% increase in the number of crayfish restaurants by 2018. Crayfish were sold everywhere, from street stalls to high-end restaurants, with one company even raising 300 million yuan in funding that year.
- The influence of food bloggers: From 2015 to 2018, food blogging was very popular, with videos showing brightly colored crayfish and bloggers enjoying them in a way that conveyed a sense of indulgence and excitement, attracting a lot of attention.
3. Young people have changed their preferences: From chaos to refinement, from gathering to convenience
Young people no longer favor crayfish for the following reasons:
- Changing aesthetic tastes: Social media platforms now favor beautifully presented meals with attractive settings (e.g., salads with basil leaves or candlelit dinners), which are more in line with a desire for elegance and order.
- Shift in emotional needs: Crayfish were once used to liven up monotonous lives, but now people want more control over their experiences. Life is already chaotic enough, so they prefer meals that are clean and orderly.
- Less desire for social gatherings: With busy work schedules and high costs of socializing, few people are willing to spend time coordinating gatherings with friends. Pre-packaged dishes (such as shrimp rice or frozen crayfish tails) are more convenient and can be eaten anytime without the hassle of peeling.
4. The mismatch between supply and demand
The decrease in crayfish prices is not due to a lack of demand but rather an oversupply:
- Rapid expansion of farming: Traditional crayfish-producing areas (Hubei, Anhui) have expanded, and new regions (Guangxi, Hainan) have joined the industry. By 2025, the total farming area is expected to exceed 31 million mu (about 206,667 hectares), with a production capacity of 3.75 million tons—enough to satisfy everyone's consumption if each person ate 5 pounds.
- Demand has cooled, but production continues: When crayfish were popular, many farmers entered the industry, leading to an oversupply that coincides with a decline in demand, creating a mismatch between supply and demand. Small farmers suffer the most as they can't sell their products at desired prices.
5. New ways for crayfish to survive: Pre-packaged dishes and a shift towards convenience
Crayfish will not disappear, but their status as a mainstream food item is unlikely to return. Instead, they are adapting through standardization:
- Rise of pre-packaged foods: Products like shrimp rice and frozen crayfish tails are selling well, making it easier for consumers to enjoy them without the hassle of peeling.
- Diversification of brands: Chain restaurants (such as Feifei Shazhuang) are diversifying their offerings, selling crab and frog pots in addition to crayfish, reducing their reliance on crayfish sales by 40%.
- Cold chain delivery: Pre-peeled crayfish are delivered through cold chains, allowing consumers to enjoy them at home without having to visit street stalls, which fits into the fast-paced modern lifestyle.
In conclusion
The decline in popularity of crayfish reflects changes in young people's lifestyles and emotional preferences. The once-practical aspects of eating crayfish (such as the social interaction and the thrill of peeling) have become disadvantages. While crayfish will not disappear, they will likely shift from being a nationally popular food to a regional delicacy, continuing to exist in more convenient forms.