虎嗅

XiYin's Three Attempts at IPO: Lacking a New Story of Growth

原文:三闯IPO的希音,缺一个增长新故事

Summary of Key Points

SHEIN is making its third attempt at an IPO and has already passed the review process with the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. If successful, it could become the largest cross-border e-commerce IPO on the Hong Kong stock market in 2026. The company's initial public financial data shows that in 2025, it generated revenue of $41.8 billion, net profit of $2.06 billion, and had 273 million active users, making it the largest online fashion platform globally (surpassing Adidas and the parent company of Uniqlo). However, SHEIN is facing multiple challenges: its revenue growth rate has plummeted from 41% in 2023 to just 1.1% in Q1 of 2026; there have been fluctuations in profits (with a reported loss in Q1 of 2026); new tariffs in the United States and Europe are impacting the business; traffic costs have soared; and its competitors have expanded from niche fashion brands like ZARA to omnichannel e-commerce platforms such as Temu and TikTok Shop. SHEIN is trying to pivot by transforming into a platform-based model, but this new strategy has not yet been fully embraced by the market. As a result, the company's valuation has dropped from its peak of $98.2 billion to the target range of $40-50 billion for this IPO.

Detailed Analysis

1. SHEIN's Competitive Advantage: Leveraging Small Orders and Fast Response for Profitability

SHEIN's ability to offer a wide range of products at low prices relies on a digitized supply chain and a small-order, fast-response model:

  • Small orders and fast response: Unlike traditional fast-fashion brands like ZARA, which place large orders months in advance and risk accumulating inventory if they miscalculate demand, SHEIN produces 100-200 units of new products for trial sales first. If the data is positive, more are produced within 5 days, with the entire process automated. This approach keeps its inventory levels at a “single-digit percentage” annually, and its inventory turnover time is 35-38 days (compared to 60-120 days for traditional fast fashion), resulting in almost no inventory pressure.
  • Supply chain advantages: SHEIN has moved its supply chain to Panyu, Guangzhou (China's largest clothing manufacturing area), where it can collaborate with dozens of workshops capable of handling small orders. The number of collaborating factories increased from 5,800 in 2023 to 7,500 in 2025, with no minimum order requirements and non-exclusive agreements, preventing any single factory from becoming a bottleneck.
  • Early traffic strategy: Around 2018, when overseas influencers were still affordable, SHEIN exchanged free products for opening-box videos to attract traffic. This strategy created a positive cycle: more traffic led to more orders, which in turn supported the manufacturing process.

In essence, SHEIN sells not just clothing but a supply chain system that uses data to replace guesswork and small batches to replace risky, large-order placement methods, all backed by over 1,700 custom-developed software solutions.

2. Growth Slows Down: Why is Revenue Growth Stagnating, and Why are Profits Fluctuating?

SHEIN's financial data reveals a “midlife crisis”:

  • Slowing revenue growth: The company’s revenue growth rate has dropped significantly, from 41% in 2023 to 21% in 2024, 8% in 2025, and just 1.1% in Q1 of 2026. Main reasons include the elimination of tax exemptions for packages under $800 in the United States (its largest market) and below €150 in Europe, increasing costs and reducing revenue shares. Additionally, competitors like Temu are competing for traffic, making it difficult to maintain growth.
  • Profit fluctuations: Although the gross margin increased to 67.9% in 2025 (up from 60.2% in 2023), the net profit margin decreased to 4.9%. The main issues are with expenses:
  • Marketing costs have risen sharply: From $3.45 billion in 2023 to $6.19 billion in 2025, accounting for 14.8% of revenue. As the cost of using influencers has increased and competitors compete for traffic, SHEIN must spend more on marketing.
  • Fulfillment costs: Fulfillment expenses accounted for nearly 45.6% of revenue in 2025. With its platform-based model, SHEIN is responsible for shipping goods for third-party sellers, and the larger the scale, the higher the costs.
  • Q1 2026 loss: This was not a real financial loss but due to changes in the fair value of preferred shares (the company’s valuation increased, resulting in a greater liability to shareholders). However, operating profits also decreased by 25.9%, indicating instability in profitability.

3. Changing Competitors: From ZARA to Temu – A Shift in Competition Logic

Previously, SHEIN's main competitors were niche fashion brands like ZARA, focusing on being the cheapest, offering the most styles, and releasing new products quickly. Now, it faces omnichannel e-commerce platforms such as Temu and TikTok Shop, which have different competitive strategies:

  • Past focus on supply chain efficiency: SHEIN had a clear advantage with its small-order, fast-response model.
  • Current competition focuses on low prices, logistics, and subsidies: Temu attracts users with “$9.9 shipping” offers, while TikTok Shop uses video content to drive sales, and Alibaba’s logistics network gives it a competitive edge. Whether SHEIN can transfer its success in the fashion category to other product categories remains to be seen.

For example, in 2025, clothing revenue accounted for 63.8% of SHEIN's total revenue, down from 68.8% in 2023, while the mall business (service revenue) increased from 2.7% to 11.3%. However, balancing these two businesses simultaneously may affect overall performance.

4. The Platform-Based Transformation: A Breakthrough or a New Challenge?

SHEIN aims to expand by becoming a platform that allows third-party sellers to operate on its platform. This brings new challenges:

  • Rising fulfillment costs: Instead of only shipping its own products, SHEIN now has to handle logistics for third-party sellers, increasing costs significantly (45.6% of revenue in 2025).
  • Intensifying competition: With many players in the omnichannel e-commerce market, SHEIN faces increased competition, especially from platforms that offer subsidies to attract users.

On the positive side, the mall business has shown rapid growth (39.5% year-over-year in 2025), potentially opening up new areas for expansion. However, to gain market recognition, SHEIN needs to provide more evidence of its success, such as the number of sellers, GMV growth, and improved fulfillment efficiency.

5. The IPO Challenge: Lowered Valuation and the Need for a New Story

SHEIN’s valuation has dropped from $98.2 billion in 2022 to $40-50 billion due to several factors:

  • The old story (small-order, fast-response) is no longer novel: The market recognizes SHEIN’s strong supply chain, but its slower growth rate undermines its valuation.
  • The new story (platform-based model) needs validation: The mall business is still in its early stages, and it remains to be seen whether it can become a new source of growth. The company promises to distribute at least 50% of net profit as dividends annually after listing, aiming to show investors that despite slower growth, it has stable cash flow. To boost its valuation, SHEIN needs to present a more compelling narrative, such as becoming the global version of Pinduoduo or providing its supply chain capabilities to other brands.

Conclusion

SHEIN’s supply chain is a significant competitive advantage, but it faces various challenges, including tariffs, rising traffic costs, changing competitors, and growth bottlenecks. Going public is just the first step; the real test will be whether SHEIN can convince investors that it can transform from a niche fashion brand into a leading omnichannel e-commerce platform. After all, the capital market prefers companies with growth potential rather than those that are stable but growing slowly.