虎嗅

"The taste of Quanyang Spring is becoming a urban legend..."

原文:泉阳泉的味道,正在成为一个都市怪谈

Summary of the Key Points

Quanyangquan, a mineral water from Changbai Mountain that costs just over 1 yuan per bottle, has suddenly become popular and has been hailed by netizens as the "miraculous water of Northeast China," with ratings comparable to those of "The Godfather." Its success is not solely due to its quality but also because it taps into a shift in consumer mentality (from pursuing luxury to seeking value for money), the "aura" associated with the Changbai Mountain water source, netizens' enthusiasm for mystical taste evaluations, and consumers' desire for authenticity and emotional connection when choosing drinking water. Behind this phenomenon lies the human need to find meaning in everyday life, as well as the subjective nature of taste experiences and their connection to cultural memories.

1. The "Luxury" at Under 1 Yuan: A Shift from Luxury Pursuit to Practicality

In the past, people felt they were overpaying for products like Evergrande Icequan (5 yuan per bottle), but now they find Quanyangquan (just over 1 yuan) refreshing and satisfying. The change is not in the water itself but in our attitudes towards price and quality.

  • Value for Money: At a price of just over 1 yuan, it allows us to maintain a low Engel coefficient (spending less on food and drink) while still benefiting from the prestige of Changbai Mountain, providing a sense of psychological satisfaction at a low cost.
  • The Demystification of Luxury Water: Products like Evian and Voss were once considered luxury because of their imported origins; however, now it's recognized that Quanyangquan's source in Jilin (a region with unique products like dried cucumbers, which are rare in the south) also carries a sense of scarcity, albeit at a lower price.
  • The Expression of Niche Tastes: Netizens perceive Quanyangquan as more stylish than brands like Yibao and Nongfushanquan, and it feels more down-to-earth compared to brands with international models (like Baishuisan) in their advertisements. It caters to the desire of younger consumers to stand out from the crowd.

2. The Aura of Changbai Mountain: The Water Source Is More Important Than Ingredients

The popularity of Quanyangquan is partly due to its association with Changbai Mountain, a renowned water source.

  • International Recognition: As one of the three golden water sources in the world, it enjoys the trust of international drinking water organizations, which makes consumers believe in its quality.
  • The Appeal of Local Products: Although people from Northeast China are distributed across the country, many local specialties (like dried cucumbers) are not easily available elsewhere. This sense of distance adds to the uniqueness of Quanyangquan, making it seem like a "taste of home."
  • The Power of Memory: Netizens imagine the water melting at the snowline and flowing through forest tundra, associating the bottle with Changbai Mountain's ancient history. This emotional connection is more impactful than the actual composition of the water.

3. Netizens' Mystical Taste Evaluations: The Role of Psychology Over Reality

The popularity of Quanyangquan also stems from netizens' imaginative interpretations, such as debates about which version (labeled A or B) tastes better.

  • The Myth of Numbers: Despite staff clarifying that both versions come from the same water source and are produced within 5 kilometers of each other, many believe that the water from Factory A is colder. This is an example of how our perception can influence our taste.
  • Cross-Cultural Comparisons: Some say it enhances the flavor of tea, coffee, or soups, but these claims are more about personal experience than any real advantage in quality. Studies show that the presence of metasilicic acid in Quanyangquan has a slight positive impact on taste, though this effect is minimal. The fun lies in the discussion itself, which adds a sense of enjoyment to an otherwise mundane activity.

4. A Refreshing Change in the Drinking Water Market: More Authenticity Than Exaggerated Marketing

Quanyangquan's success is a response to exaggerated marketing tactics.

  • Contrast with False Claims: Products like思库拉 Ion Water, which claimed to have 12 different flavors corresponding to body reflex zones, were punished for false advertising. Quanyangquan, with its honest and affordable approach, stands out as more genuine.
  • A Different Approach from Luxury Brands: While brands like Evian and VOS are expensive due to their reputation and import costs, Quanyangquan focuses on authenticity, appealing to consumers who value simplicity and practicality.
  • Learning from Nongfushanquan: Nongfushanquan's "slightly sweet" marketing strategy also relied on psychological manipulation. Quanyangquan follows a similar approach, convincing consumers of its uniqueness without relying on fancy concepts.

5. The Story Behind Taste: What Makes Something Delicious Depends on Your Memories and Emotions

The controversy around Quanyangquan reflects the subjectivity of taste—what one finds delicious depends on personal experiences, memories, and culture.

  • A Sense of Home: For people from Jilin, drinking Quanyangquan may evoke childhood memories; for those in the south, it might bring a sense of freshness from the Northeast. This is about filling emotional gaps through taste.
  • The Intangibility of Taste: While visual and auditory experiences are measurable, taste is much harder to quantify. For example, while you can distinguish between Coca-Cola and Laoshan Coke, it's hard to differentiate between different brands of bottled water. Blind tastings often yield inconclusive results, indicating that taste is highly personal.
  • Finding What Suits You: Those who enjoy Quanyangquan have found a product that matches their preferences. In a world full of monotony, this can be a source of small joy.

In Conclusion: The Popularity of Quanyangquan Represents Ordinary People's Small Victories

Quanyangquan is nothing special; it's just an affordable mineral water from Changbai Mountain. Its success reflects the current consumer demand for value for money, authenticity, and a sense of enjoyment in everyday life. After all, life can be quite bland, so why not add a bit of "story" to our water?