虎嗅

"You Spend 80 Yuan to Fill Up on Carbs? Young People Are Starting to Avoid Big Food Chains?"

原文:“花80块吃一肚子碳水”,年轻人开始逃离比格?

Summary of Key Points

Big Pizza, once a symbol of prestige in the childhoods of Beijing children, has been criticized by younger customers for its menu, which now includes Chinese dishes like dumplings, fried rice, and spicy soup, describing it as “food for the elderly.” However, Big Pizza has quietly shifted its target audience strategy from focusing solely on young people to serving a range of stable customer groups, including families and the elderly. Despite the online backlash from younger consumers, the company’s orders and table turnover rates have increased, and it continues to expand its stores. This shift reflects the rise of the “silver economy” in the food and beverage industry, highlighting the fact that the consumer market is not solely composed of young people, and the needs of different age groups deserve attention.

From “Childhood Glory” to “Carbohydrate Buffet”: How Has Big Pizza’s Menu Changed?

Twenty years ago, Big Pizza was the epitome of Western food for Beijing children—pizzas were sold out as soon as they were made, ice cream was available freely, and drinks could be refilled indefinitely, allowing children to boast about their meal for days. The standard for a good buffet back then was simple: the more dishes, the better; the more you took, the more profit it meant, with no concern for whether the cheese had been fermented for 72 hours, as long as it melted and contained meat.

But Big Pizza has changed: now, alongside pizzas, you’ll find dumplings, zongzi (rice dumplings), spicy soup, and even sour and spicy taro balls and Korean-style fried konjac sheets. Young customers are confused: “Is this really a pizza buffet or a Chinese cafeteria?” Netizens criticize the R&D department for being influenced by unusual food preferences, and even the store manager doesn’t understand why sour and spicy taro balls were added. The most frustrating aspect is that for 80 yuan, customers end up eating mainly inexpensive carb-heavy dishes like fried rice and pasta, leaving some feeling so full they fall asleep on the spot.

Why Add These “Strange” Dishes? Big Pizza’s Target Audience Has Already Changed

Does Big Pizza really not realize how out of place these dishes are? The company is well aware of this. In the documents submitted to the Hong Kong Stock Exchange in January, families, students, and the elderly were all listed as part of its target audience—Big Pizza never intended to cater only to young people from the start.

These “strange” dishes are actually designed with the elderly in mind:

  • Familiar Flavors: Dumplings and spicy soup are common foods for the elderly, so they don’t need to adapt to new tastes;
  • Soft Textures: Fried rice, taro balls, and other soft foods are easy to eat even for those with poor dentition;
  • Warm and Nutritious: The elderly prefer hot meals, making these dishes more appealing than cold pizzas.

While young customers may think these dishes are a waste of money, the elderly find them comfortable. This is Big Pizza’s strategy: using Chinese carb-heavy dishes to retain the elderly and pizzas to attract children, thus drawing in families as well.

“Elderly Food” Is Not a Pejorative Term: The Silver Economy Becomes a New Frontier for the Food Industry

Big Pizza isn’t the first brand to embrace the elderly. At Haolunge (its former rival), the elderly often take their seats before the restaurant opens; at Jindingxuan Buffet, seniors receive a 10% discount, and they queue up half an hour in advance and use video platforms to find dining locations for gatherings.

The elderly’s consumer needs are clear:

  • Time: They have free time during weekdays at noon and want to sit down and chat after eating;
  • Convenient Environment: Restaurants with air conditioning, elevators, and bathrooms make them more accessible;
  • Value for Money: Fixed prices allow them to eat freely without having to cater to others’ tastes.

Big Pizza meets these needs perfectly. The silver economy is not a niche market—China has over 280 million people aged 60 and above, and their food and beverage spending is increasingly valued by brands.

Younger Customers’ Criticisms vs. Business Growth: The Diverse Reality of the Consumer Market

Although young customers online criticize Big Pizza for being “rustic” and not worth the money, its business is actually doing well: average order values have decreased from 71.1 yuan to 62.9 yuan, but orders and table turnover rates have increased, and stores are still expanding.

Why? Because the young critics and the actual consumers are not the same group:

  • Young people seek “exquisite” and “luxurious” experiences, preferring beef hot pots or freshly baked pizzas for 80 yuan;
  • The elderly and families prefer value for money, wanting hot, varied meals that they can enjoy with their children for 80 yuan.

This shows that the consumer market is not just about young trends; stable older customer groups can also drive business success. We cannot view businesses solely from the perspective of younger consumers and ignore the needs of other age groups.

Food Brands Don’t Need to Be “Forever Young”: Stable Customer Groups Can Also Sustain Success

The food industry constantly strives for youthful trends—today it’s the rustic style, tomorrow the industrial style, and the day after that, standing coffee drinking. But Big Pizza has proven that you can thrive without following the latest fads. By abandoning the “freshness” appeal to young people, it has gained the loyalty of the elderly and families.

People’s food preferences change with age:

  • In their teens, they want large portions and satisfying meals;
  • In their twenties, they focus on losing weight, looking good for photos, and being fashionable;
  • After middle age, they value comfort, convenience, and dishes that children enjoy and that parents can easily eat.

Big Pizza has targeted these needs. By focusing on what its customers really want, it has found success. Perhaps other food brands should follow this approach: instead of competing for the young, they should focus on serving the stable customer groups that have been overlooked.

In conclusion, “elderly food” is not a derogatory term; it simply reflects the diversity of the food market. When one group of people moves on from their childhood cafeteria habits, another will take their place. The changes at Big Pizza are not a sign of decline but a demonstration of adapting to market trends.