Summary of Key Points
Putin's visit to the island made it clear that there is no room for compromise in the territorial dispute between Russia and Japan. However, in the daily life of Sakhalin (as called by Russia), traces of Japanese colonization are everywhere: cars with right-hand steering wheels are common on the streets, Japanese-made goods are trusted by locals, Japanese-style buildings have been modified for use, and Japanese cuisine has become part of the local diet. Even the presence of a Korean community is an indirect result of Japanese colonialism. This contrast arises from the fact that the habits formed during colonization are difficult to change quickly. Russia treats these remnants as evidence of its "victory," unlike China and South Korea, which view them as a source of national trauma. Political relations can cool down rapidly, but the connections embedded in society and the economy (such as the automotive market and energy cooperation) take longer to dissolve.
1. Right-hand Steering Wheels and Japanese Goods: The Influence of Japan on Sakhalin's Everyday Life
Sakhalin residents use Japanese products not out of pro-Japanese sentiment, but due to practicality and habit.
- Why are right-hand steering wheels the norm? Russia primarily uses left-hand steering wheels (driving on the right side of the road), but since Sakhalin is close to Japan, importing used cars from there is cost-effective. Over time, repair shops have become specialized in servicing Japanese vehicles, and parts are readily available, creating a cycle where these habits are difficult to change. Even with current sanctions, small-displacement Japanese cars can still be imported, and the market has not significantly "de-Japanized."
- Japanese goods as a symbol of quality: Stores clearly label their products as "made in Japan," and kitchenware and cosmetics come in Japanese packaging. Chinese-made products, such as konjac jelly, sell well because of the Japanese-style packaging, which is perceived by locals as authentic Japanese goods. This trust is the result of decades of consumption habits.
- Japanese cuisine in daily life: Sakhalin is rich in seafood, which complements Japanese culinary ingredients. Japanese restaurants serve both tourists and locals, with some having been open for over 20 years and often requiring queues during peak hours. Menus are also adapted to Russian tastes, with larger portions and more cooked dishes.
2. Pragmatic Use of Colonial Buildings: Russia's "Utilitarian Transformation" of Japanese Heritage
Sakhalin does not completely destroy or preserve Japanese remnants; instead, it retains what is useful and modifies the rest.
- Selective preservation: Religious and political symbols are removed (such as shrines), while museums, lighthouses, and railways that can still be used are adapted for new purposes. For example, the local history museum on Sakhalin was originally a public building from Japan's "Kamchatka" period; after the Soviet takeover, it was converted into a museum focusing on Russian history. Japanese-built lighthouses were renamed with Soviet heroes' names and continue to serve their purpose.
- Adapting for new uses: The old railway used Japanese narrow tracks until 2020 when it was converted to Russian wide tracks. Japanese-style instruments and Soviet switches coexist in the same buildings, creating a "patchwork of history." These remnants no longer symbolize Japanese rule but demonstrate Russia's role as the "victorious party" that took control.
- Turning old items into souvenirs: Bottles and jars left by Japanese families during the evacuation are cleaned and sold as memorabilia, with their "Kamchatka" labels highlighting a sense of history, as if to say, "We won, and these things now belong to us."
3. The Pain Behind Korean Culture: The Korean Community as a Legacy of Japanese Colonialism
The presence of Korean culture on Sakhalin (such as the "Пянсе" bun) is not accidental but a direct result of Japanese colonialism.
- How did the Koreans arrive? During Japanese rule, residents from the Korean Peninsula were forced to work on mines and build railways in Sakhalin, many dying from exhaustion. After Japan's withdrawal in 1945, only the Japanese were repatriated, leaving the Koreans behind. They and their descendants now make up about 8% of the island's population.
- The history behind the bun: The "Пянсе" bun is a Korean dish that has become part of the local diet. However, this comes with a dark history: Koreans once waited at ports for ships to take them home but never returned, and the "Tears Mountain" sculpture in Korsakov Port commemorates their suffering. This history is a hidden scar of Japanese colonialism, concealed by everyday food.
4. Differences in Attitudes Towards Colonial Remains among China, Russia, and South Korea: The Distinction Between Victors and Victims
The ways China, Russia, and South Korea handle colonial remnants reflect different historical perspectives:
- China/South Korea: These remnants are seen as evidence of trauma, used to remind future generations of the suffering. For example, the former Manchukuo palace in Northeast China and the Nanjing Massacre Memorial serve this purpose.
- Russia: Remains on Sakhalin are viewed as proof of victory, with the "Victory" museum celebrating the Soviet Union's recapture of southern Sakhalin in 1945. Japanese-built structures serve as a backdrop for stories of Soviet bravery.
- The key difference: Whether a country was a victim or a victor in history determines how it perceives these remnants. Most immigrants to Sakhalin came from other parts of the Soviet Union after the war and did not experience colonial hardship, so the remnants are seen as useful objects rather than personal scars.
5. Why Does Japanese Influence Persist Despite Political Tensions? Social Habits Outlast Policies
Political relations between Japan and Russia have cooled down, but Japanese influences on Sakhalin remain due to:
- Unchangeable habits: Cars with right-hand steering wheels will not disappear immediately, and repair shops will not suddenly switch to servicing Russian-made vehicles. Consumer trust in Japanese goods is not easily shaken by news.
- Indelible economic ties: Japanese companies (such as Mitsui and Mitsubishi) still hold shares in the "Sakhalin 2" energy project, and Japan continues to import liquefied natural gas from there. Energy cooperation is a vital need that cannot be easily severed by politics.
- Deep historical connections: There was a visa-free exchange between Japan and Russia from the 1990s to 2022, and Hokkaido once had an office in Sakhalin. Although these ties have been cut off, habits (such as driving and shopping) remain.
In conclusion, while Sakhalin's political sovereignty belongs to Russia, its daily life is still influenced by Japanese heritage. The contrast between "political sovereignty" and "social reality" is clearly illustrated in this analysis, with specific examples that make the information understandable to non-financial professionals. The core message is that history cannot be easily forgotten, and social habits are more stubborn than political decisions.