虎嗅

French AOP vineyard prices continue to decline, with a 23.8% drop in the Bordeaux region.

原文:法国AOP葡萄园均价持续回落,波尔多地区跌23.8%

Summary of Key Points

The French vineyard land market in 2025 exhibited a trend of "reviving transactions but with differentiated prices": The total number of transactions increased by 4.5% year-on-year, and transaction values rebounded by 16.3%, approaching historical highs. However, the overall average price fell for the second consecutive year, with significant disparities across different regions. High-end, scarce areas such as Burgundy and Champagne saw prices rise against the trend, while core regions in Bordeaux and Cognac experienced sharp declines, and prices in non-AOP (Appellation d'Origine Protégée) areas also generally fell. The market was not uniformly sluggish; rather, it reflected a structural adjustment: lower-priced areas attracted buyers, a few high-value transactions boosted the total amount, scarce assets remained resilient, and ordinary regions faced greater pressure.

1. Transactions are Heating Up, but Prices Are Generally Falling: Diversification Is the Key Word

In 2025, there were 10,930 transactions in French vineyards, covering an area of 19,000 hectares (a 0.5% increase year-on-year), with transaction values amounting to 1.648 billion euros (approximately 13 billion RMB). Despite the activity, prices did not keep up:

  • Overall Average Price Pressure: The average price for officially certified premium regions (AOP) was 171,400 euros per hectare, down 2.9%; non-AOP areas saw a decrease of 7.7%; AOP regions for spirits like Cognac fared even worse, with a drop of 54.5%.
  • Champagne Holds Its Own: Excluding the extremely expensive Champagne (1.13 million euros per hectare, which actually increased by 0.9%), the average price for other AOP regions dropped to 87,400 euros per hectare, a decrease of 6.8%.
  • Why Are Transaction Values Rising?: Firstly, lower-priced areas saw buyers entering the market (for example, the average price in ordinary Bordeaux regions dropped to 6,500 euros per hectare). Secondly, a few high-end transactions (such as core plots in Burgundy) boosted the total amount.

In short: The market is not completely cold, but most areas are experiencing price declines, with only a few "top performers" seeing increases.

2. Burgundy Is Rising Against the Trend: Scarcity + Demand Recovery + White Wine Craze

The average price in Burgundy was 307,000 euros per hectare, up 3.9%, and in the core region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, it reached 1 million euros per hectare (up 5%). Why is this?

  • Scarcity of Core Plots: The core area of Burgundy is small, and high-quality plots are almost impossible to expand, making them even more valuable.
  • Demand Driven by Price: In the previous two years, Burgundy wines were too expensive; in 2025, prices dropped slightly (a 4.7% decrease in average export prices), making entry-level and village-level wines more affordable for consumers, leading to a 2.4% increase in exports and dealers being willing to restock.
  • White Wine Popularity: White wine from Burgundy accounts for 74% of exports, and exports increased by 4.6% in 2025, driving up the value of upstream land.
  • Production Decline Stabilizes Supply and Demand: Burgundy's production dropped significantly in 2024 (the second lowest in nearly 15 years), reducing inventory pressure and improving market expectations.

In summary, Burgundy has managed to stabilize its prices due to scarcity and demand recovery.

3. Sharp Drop in the Core Bordeaux Region: Weak Demand + Competition + Climate Risk

The average price in Bordeaux was 77,000 euros per hectare, down 23.8%, with prices in the core region of Pauillac dropping by 32% and in Margaux by 43%. Why is this?

  • Weak Demand: The Chinese market used to be a major buyer for Bordeaux wines, but growth has slowed; profits for mid-range châteaux have been compressed, and dealers are reluctant to restock.
  • Fierce Competition: New world wine producers from Australia and Chile offer better value for money, competing with Bordeaux wines.
  • Climate Risks: Frequent frosts and hailstorms in recent years have caused significant production fluctuations and increased management costs, making investments unattractive.
  • Product Structure Obsolescence: Bordeaux relies mainly on red wines, but consumers now prefer white wines, which is not in line with market trends.

In short, the "glory" of Bordeaux's famous châteaux is fading, and some of the market's bubble has burst.

4. Cognac's Dramatic Drop: Cooling Chinese and American Markets, Rapid Impact on the Supply Chain

The average price in the Cognac region was 23,200 euros per hectare, a 54.5% decrease, almost halving. The reasons are straightforward:

Cognac's main markets, China and the United States, have seen slowing demand: cautious consumption in China and trade tensions in the U.S., combined with high channel inventory, have led to poor sales at the retail level, affecting the value of upstream land.

Cognac is a prime example of how market trends quickly affect land prices, as the spirits industry has a short supply chain.

5. Market Lessons: Scarcity Assets Still Retain Value, Ordinary Regions Require Caution

  • For Investors: Buying into scarce, high-end regions (such as core Burgundy and Champagne) is still a solid choice, as these areas have limited resources and stable long-term value. Ordinary regions (like the southwest or non-AOP areas) carry higher risks, with potential further price declines.
  • For Consumers: Wines from Bordeaux and Cognac may become more affordable; for example, prices of mid-range châteaux in Bordeaux have dropped, offering better value for consumers. However, some regions may see quality decline due to increased costs.
  • For the Industry: Climate change is a major challenge; wineries must spend more on adapting to extreme weather and adjusting planting varieties, which will affect future land values.

In conclusion, the French vineyard market is no longer a guaranteed profit opportunity; choosing the right region is crucial.